Jump to content
SAU Community

My R32 Sounds Like A Pidgeon...


rednut
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gday,

i've got a fairly well modified r32 gtst and when backing off the throttle when boost is between 0 - 5 psi, instead of the usual "pppsssschhhh" noise, i get the pidgeon flutter. Now a mate of mine told me the other day he reckons its bad for the wastegate. He says that my BOV is adjusted way too tight and air is escaping through the wastegate (and making the flutter noise) instead of the BOV.

Firstly, where does the pidgeon flutter noise come from? The BOV, the wastegate or the turbo compressor wheel?

Secondly, is my mate right and that this is actually bad for my car?

I'm no show-pony and not into modifying my car for noises etc so i want whatever is best for my cars performance.

Any advice appreciated...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

your mate is both right and wrong.

right = it's because your bov is to tight.

wrong = sound is caused by air going back through the turbo.

wastegates don't make that kind of noise.

is it bad for your turbo?

strong point from both sides of that story..

my view is, there is a factory bov, it idles better with it there, car behaves better.

loosen your bov while the cars is idling until it almost stalls.

then tighten it by one whole turn.

drive it and see ow you go.

if it stalls, tighten some more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...