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I spent the drive on my low boost setting, as soon as I put it on high boost the car breaks traction in the slightest drizzle and those winding country roads at 120km/hr isnt the place to be breaking traction... too many trees around *shudder* I've found the dunlop SP9000 to be great tyres, but they arnt cheap at $350/tyre for 225/50

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i would rather pay more and put good quality into my car than have shit like i have now that u only have to replace anyway and spend more money on - im one of these people that have learnt that cheap n nasty ends up costing u more money in the long run!

always thought u car was blue from your avatar Rob hehe got a shock when isaw it was black - now i look at the avatar it is black its just i mustve been colour blind before!!

Parting with cash is always hard - but i usually just use it on stuff i need with my car - haha wish i could afford wank factor.

yeah i think i'll have an early night - invited someone over but havent heard back so thats cool. Dont want to go to work tommorrow - already depressed enough - that place will send me crazy . Was suppose to be using this weekend to fill out job application etc but i'll do that later i think.

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    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
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    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
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