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you'll be happy to know Joe - plastic smell has been replaced by fuel smell :rofl:

Mike .... yes aircon on = sluggish car .... that swhy most of us dont even have aircon. secondly yes hot weather is not the best for turbo cars .... all our cars a lot slower in this weather .... obviously turbo cars work a lot better on a cold air intake that an phucking hot one!

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oooh .... zorst shopping with aidwin :rofl: ... good fun!

TJ - even tho im a heartless bitch on the outside i still on the inside feel sorry for some of my actions cos im really a nice person ... you know that ...just some individuals push the boundaries of my patience.  

Mikey ..... we arent all as scary in person as we are on net ... you'll probably find once we meet you we'll lay off a bit

i know ur cool niz otherwise i wouldnt talk to you. Simple

now all i need to do is just Paul out of the picture

:ghost:

Mikey ..... we arent all as scary in person as we are on net ... you'll probably find once we meet you we'll lay off a bit
hahaha she wont... lol she will eat you alive in the motorplex!!! as TJ said it will be SMACK DOWN :Bang: and she will :flamed: you ... lol

BTW watch out for crazy dodgie korean guy... he dont hold back

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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