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dan - stick 'em all over your car....Rice rice rice !!!! and custom make another sticker " what are you looking at?" hahahaha :)

paul - yea, met him 2 times... :D strange thogh, he like long pants over here in this humid warm weather... :D

niz - 20 minutes? luck you......on strike again? wahhhhhh

Open the bonnet the other nite cause i smell fuel :confused: lo and behold one of the injector lines is spraying fuel eveywhere. Not just a trickle either it took me 1/4 tank to get from perth to home on south st. Was damn worried it might explode so got it towed next morn back to the shop.

O o and after the AGM on sun gradenko was running late for an appt so he let me take his car home to do some stuff i had to do. Im kinda half going this semi worked civic and i come up over a hill to see a speed camera, hit the brakes and check the speedo, 60kmhr, look back up and it flashes at me. Dammit. Stoopid civic getting me all rilled up :)

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    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
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