Jump to content
SAU Community

Drift Button For R33

vuey28

By vuey28,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

its a thing you slide into your handbrake to not make it click into place. its just a hollow piece of aluminium with some major aftermarket ripoff brand like HSK, TDR, BLITS etc engraved on it and costs like $30.

Or you could just shove something like your mum's sewing thimble in there instead. I'm sure someone has a DIY on how to make one. its got to be the most simple yet "drift necessity" item in the drift merchant's repartoire.

Cut your handbrake cable... its even easier. :)

lordsnipe Community Regular

lordsnipe

Posted
Posted
A "drift button" what on earth is that?

Ooo... maybe a but that you press and it makes the car drift the next corner you come upto...

automatically! 

:ph34r:

it's a thing you put over your handbrake button so it's always pushed down, so all you need to do to get the handbrake going is a quick tug up.

also means you don't have to push the button while trying to get it down...

Samboha Apprentice

Samboha

Posted
Posted
Yes lets all cut our handbrake cables that way when we go to drift we really wont be drifting we will look like idiots swerveing for no reason.:D

Not flaming just having a laugh.:D

You gotta cut the handbrake spring to fit a drift button anyway so cutting the handbrake cable is pretty close to the truth........

What we really need is a thread on how to reverse a drift button mod when you get defected by the cops.... :)

vuey28 Collaborator

vuey28

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks lordsnipe (for the link thingy) and everyone else for contributing. I never knew you could get defected for it. Thats something new to me. Well no surprise since most things are defectable. Thanks again all.

:lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...