Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have any of you guys ever seen altezza lights for skylines?

im putting in projector lenses for my headlights, but its going to be a manual job, of using either vx commodore lenses or another kind. i dont want the lense to be too small as the larger the gap around will have to be. should make the xenon's look twice as good and light up more road than street signs and ambo's, but i can see a cop from 500m away.

apparently r33 series 2 GTR had xenon lights had the projector, but they're hard to come buy at a decent price, e.g. 400+ per light.

any comments would be appreciated.

and do you think they would look any good?

luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88308-altezza-lights/
Share on other sites

VIVA Garage have some clear tail lights, not too sure on the price, thinking about $800, havn't seen too many sets of them around! I would buy them but i have better mods to worry about than lights(the GO GO GO GO fast bits).

well the first thing people notice is with their eyes and ears so i thought cosmetics would be a good start.

also may make the car look newer, as the lights make the car look aged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88308-altezza-lights/#findComment-1595843
Share on other sites

Well i picked up a right side damaged holden headlight from claridge, and am in the process of fitting the projector lense to the Skyline headlight. will post some picks up along the way.

need to order another HID set as the Holden takes a H11 globe.

so when they arrive, its all a matter of pulling apart the nissan headlight, using the existing silver surround of the holden lense and cutting it to fit into the low-beam of each headlight. its a pretty similar fit so should look good.

ive started the right side and ill let you know how it goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88308-altezza-lights/#findComment-1603818
Share on other sites

well its only labour. im using holden vy series lights and basically cutting the surround down to size. then u melt your healidht, unscrew the existing surround and fit this one in with a few cuts.

you could do it with any projector lense headlight, but it depends how neat u want it.

im getting the parts for free from a crash repair, and it looks like a 100grand merc when its at a set of lights.

replacement cost of the holden headlights is 360 each to buy so depends how much u want it, otherwise u have to wait for a crash repairer to get some. im still waiting for the left side to finish.

but u do need H11 globes @ 45 each otherwise a H11 HID kit at around 350-400

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88308-altezza-lights/#findComment-1635549
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...