Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my mechanic said to start of with a mineral oil for some reason, then after xxx kms move on to semi-synthetic, then after another xxx kms move on the synthetic.......don't think that really helps lol......but yeah, I haven't got my car back yet either so i'd be interested to hear brand names etc.

Must be glad to get it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1594566
Share on other sites

I am sure there will be w/shops who say it's wrong but this is what we do.

Valvoline LoVis mineral oil in with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Refill again with Lo Vis and new filter ( as all engines have particles in them and need to be removed from the engine asap so hopefully will be trapped in the filter).

Do 500km at moderate revs and load and change again.

Put on a semi sythnetic based oil and up the load/revs but not flat out till about 1,000km.

Put onto full synthetic ( we use Mobil 1) and belt away....

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1594822
Share on other sites

Dru, do a search, I posted a very detailed run in procedure for all engines, also Motul and Pennzoil have specific run in oils that you can get, some from Autobarn from memory!!!

did you read my post? :)

i did search.. i searched "RB26 run in oil"

thanks ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1594957
Share on other sites

I pretty much did what GTRken described.

I used a plain mineral oil with ZERO friction modifiers.

Mineral Motul 10w30 until 10,000km's then went synthetic.

I had to wire open the wastegate and get some decent load in to it as it was trying to boost 10-12psi under 2000rpm at wot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1595590
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter,

And yes Ken I read your post, maybe you should try searching under OTHER things...

As I have already said Motul make a specific run in oil, mineral based. Same with Pennzoil...maybe have a look on their sites, and as I said in the thread above, if your engine builder cannot give you a detailed run in procedure...get another engine builder!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1596503
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter,

if your engine builder cannot give you a detailed run in procedure...get another engine builder!!!

i am helping the builder out a lot with the build, and if i can question what he thinks and suggest different ideas then why not

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1596819
Share on other sites

i am helping the builder out a lot with the build, and if i can question what he thinks and suggest different ideas then why not

thanks

I am not disagreeing with the above, I have built many engines, however I will never proclaim to be an encyclopedia nor a professional engine builder. Also the info on the internet can be somewhat muddied at times.

He should have a plan especially for the run in, taking into consideration the engine characteristics, including but not limited to, honing, type of pistons, rings, clearances, squish, bearings etc etc etc

At the end of the day, you did ask for run in oil and you have your answer... :lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1597100
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I know this post is old but this may help someones understanding of the above in the future. I hope :P

Anyway. To the best of my knowledge since mineral oil reduces friction less then the synthetics, it helps aid the bedding in process. If u went for a synthetic oil straight off it would take far longer to run ur engine in, as the aim of the synthetic is minimal ware.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1615605
Share on other sites

i would never use a fully or semi synthetic in a new engine. I ended up using valvoline mono-grade 30w oil for my run in. waited around 1500k's then changed oil and filter with motul turbo-light 4100.. its working a treat... but with most run-in 'procedures' just drive it like ur gonna drive it.. buit i didnt within he first 3-400 k's.. but after then... strap it..

each to their own.. time for sleep too many bourbans :P

Bubye

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1615671
Share on other sites

We do basically what gtrken posted....

Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so will be bypassed.

Check basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor.

Drive to Bathurst and back, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc

Refill with Castyrol Formula R Synthetic, new oil filter.

Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno.

Go racing

:P Cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1615761
Share on other sites

SK's advice/practice is also similar to that used for new motorcycles. Remember Jap bikes also have an integral gearbox design, with shift quality closely linked (and really obvious to the rider) to a good run-in. Mineral oils allow more effective bed-in between surfaces, and there are many reports of a result similar to bore glazing from guys who thought they were looking after their engines by using a synthetic from new.

Brand of oil probably less important, but do use mineral oil for a period of hours, then go to synthetic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88350-rb26-run-in-oil/#findComment-1616557
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...