Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just got my rb20 tuned and finished today, its didnt pull the power i wanted but i think this is due to lack of boost, i have high flowed turbs and all the supporting mods to run over 320rwhp, but when they went to tune it at 18psi, it would spike there then drop straight back to 12psi, wat is the deal there, there is no leaks in the cooler pipin anywhere as they thoroughly went over them, could this be the actuator on the turbo giving in, or would it be the stock bov opening up? how to i test these 2 things, any recommendations on wat it is would be greatly appreciated. So atm its tuned on 12psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88513-just-dynoed-rb20det/
Share on other sites

thats the thing, they installed my apexi boost kit for the power fc, they said it wasnt working very well because it kept losing so much boost and couldnt hold it at 18psi at all, so i gave them my old manual boost controller, and they tuned it for 12psi and said that the manual one worked a bit better and wasnt so spiky, they still couldnt get it to stay at 18psi with the manual boost kit.

I found my stock actuator would drop back to 10-11psi at any boost above that.

An aftermarket adjustable would be well worth a look for 2 reasons: 1) you can set a higher base boost on the actuator and so are garanteed of that whatever your ebc does, and 2) The higher the base you set, the easier it will be for the ebc to do it's job and as a result you will have a more stable system with less spiking and a flat line to redline.

I also have a feeling the stock actuators aren't that good at holding anything above 10psi, unless combined with a decent EBC to pulse it.. Mine can sit on 13-14psi, but always dribbles back to 10-11psi in the higher rev range.

It may be one of those varying things - some factory ones may be fine, others get old and not so good.

I've got an RB20 and RB25 actuator sitting around, should do a couple of swaps and see which is better (onto rb25 turbo).

No.

Boost ramps up harder.

Try not to think about it too much. It works, that is why adjustable rods were created. :blink:

The RB25/VG30 actuator is quite soft and can be adjusted by hand, the RB20 on the other hand requires a big dirty screw driver to be levered against the elbow.

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...