Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pump Pressure

mrhele

By mrhele,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mrhele Community Regular

mrhele

Posted
Posted

Sorry Guys i have done a million searches on the site but cant seem to find any info. How can i tell if my oil pump is on its way.

Comparing my Oil pressure gauge to a mates car whos is identical to mine on idle both our cars side on 3 on the oil pressure gauges. When you accelerate in either car mine struggles to make it to about way on the gauge were his 1 climbs.

Now i have thought about the sender to the unit may be faulty but i would really like to test the engine oil pressure rather haveing to go upon what the gauges says.

Could the problem be my oil pump not pushing up enuf oil?

BTW the car is a R33 S1 GTST

Front mount, exhaust and filter are the only mods for now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88543-oil-pump-pressure/
Share on other sites
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Sorry Guys i have done a million searches on the site but cant seem to find any info. How can i tell if my oil pump is on its way.

Comparing my Oil pressure gauge to a mates car whos is identical to mine on idle both our cars side on 3 on the oil pressure gauges. When you accelerate in either car mine struggles to make it to about way on the gauge were his 1 climbs.

Now i have thought about the sender to the unit may be faulty but i would really like to test the engine oil pressure rather haveing to go upon what the gauges says.

Could the problem be my oil pump not pushing up enuf oil?

BTW the car is a R33 S1 GTST

Front mount, exhaust and filter are the only mods for now

You're right, there are a million threads on this. I just replaced the sender unit on my RB26. The unit is located immediately to the rear of the oil filter. I am assuming the location is the same on an RB25. You can (With the right spanners) remove the sender unit & attach a mechanical gauge. Rev it to the rpm's suggested in the engine manual & read the figure.

The fault you describe is the same fault as my old sender unit.

Ninety something percent of the time the sender unit is faulty, not the oil pump. For peace of mind, it is best to cough up the $200 for a new sender. This has the added bonus of making the car easier to sell. Hard to convince a prospective buyer that the engine is ok when it is reading 0 psi pressire. Think of it as an investment.....

mrhele Community Regular

mrhele

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that dude, ill give it a try this weekend but this this car wont be sold as i will be going for a GTR in the near future but the misses loves the car and wants it as her lil Drifter. lol. I guess that means her Echo becomes her Weekend car. LOL.

Definately ill give it a go this weekend

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...