Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Wastgate Actuator Any Use?

SAMFISHER

By SAMFISHER,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SAMFISHER Enthusiast

SAMFISHER

Posted
Posted

I have got the PFC boost controller kit ready to install.

Would there be any benefit to fitting a HKS wastgate actuator as well?

I will be looking at setting the boost level at about 0.8 bar (12 PSI) which is within the recommended range of 0.8 - 0.9 for the HKS actuator.

Will it make the boost more stable? Make it easier for the solenoid to do its job?

Enable boost to spool up quicker?

Or will the boost controller do just as good a job with the standard acuator.

This is for a R33 25t series II

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88571-hks-wastgate-actuator-any-use/
Share on other sites
SAMFISHER Enthusiast

SAMFISHER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sorry to hijack... but where'd u find one and how much?

The actuator? Nengun sell them for about $170 Aus but I can get one from a guy over here in NZ for $150NZ (he wants to get rid of it because he doesn't need it)

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

The actuator sets the minimum boost pressure so it needs to be rated at whatever minimum you need . Electronic control is good for solving boost creep problems but cannot regulate at less than the spring pressure in the actuator can , only more . I would use the electronic control before the higher rate actuator .

Cheers A .

SAMFISHER Enthusiast

SAMFISHER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The actuator sets the minimum boost pressure so it needs to be rated at whatever minimum you need . Electronic control is good for solving boost creep problems but cannot regulate at less than the spring pressure in the actuator can , only more . I would use the electronic control before the higher rate actuator .

Cheers  A .

Thanks Disco, so no point in both (I already have the boost controller)

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted (edited)

Didn't Sydneykid write something about how to use an adj actuator and ebc together properly?

Found it:

A boost controller solenoid works by opening (bypassing) and closing rapidly to limit the boost the wategate actuator sees. So you can have say 15 psi but the wastegate actuator only gets say 10 psi.

The boost controller also works when you are trying to steepen up the boost curve by keeping the wastegate shut longer. Some are rated at 10 psi but start opening at 5 psi, some people call this \"boost creep\" which is not strictly technically correct.

The problem with all boost controllers happens when you have a big difference between the initial opening psi of the wastegate actuator (say 5 psi) and the boost controller (say 15 psi). The solenoid has to work very hard to bypass this much pressure.

What we have found works well is to increase the pressure of the wastegate actuator. A stronger spring, lengthening the actuator rod, spacing the actuator away from the turbo body or using a higher psi wastegate actuator (eg; a RB20DET actuator on an RB25DET) all achieve this.

If the wastegtate actuator is now say 10 psi, this means the solenoid (still 15 psi) only has to bypass half as much. This results in much better accuracy of boost control.

Edited by Scooby
ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
Posted

Not wanting to hi-jack, but since we're on the topic of wastegate actuators, can someone tell me which HKS wastegate actuator (ie. 80mm or 100mm) is more suitable for use on a HKS2835 ProS on an RB25det? Looking to get around 275rwkw with supporting mods (incl EBC)

I wouldn't have a clue which one is more suitable...

Thanks guys :blink:

SAMFISHER Enthusiast

SAMFISHER

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks Scooby, SK's on the money as usual

Still not 100% sure whether actuator will be much use to me.

If standard actuator is 7psi and I want to run 12psi

(HKS actuator is 12 - 13psi)

is that a big enough difference to reduce the accuracy of the boost via the EBC?

Edited by SAMFISHER
Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

Mate that's a good question, presumably if you set the ebc at 12 psi and the wg at 11psi you'd have an ideal arrangement but I see your point re how much difference is ok to run with - why mess with another peice of adj kit if you don't have to. Hopefully the learned one (TLO) will surface soon...

Cheers

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

My 2530 arrived this morning and the HKS actuator that came with it has a softer spring than my old rb20 actuator.

How do you set the actuator rod preload?

My rb20 actuator rod had about 3mm ie the rod was 3mm shorter than the distance from the diaphram at rest and the pin on the closed wastegate arm but my 2530 came set up with about 6mm of preload.

Is there a proper method of setting this up?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...