Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally the budget allows for a turbo back exhaust to be fitted to the 33. I was just about to buy a nice looking Trust stainless catback system, then chuck on a front pipe etc, when a mate told me it would be cheaper to go to an exhaust shop and just get the full thing made up. It will probaly work out cheaper as well as allowing me to choose the exact muffler i want and also the angle it points out at the back, the only problem is will a custom exhaust be less flowing, due to welds???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88622-custom-vs-brand-exhausts/
Share on other sites

Beware getting the local bloke to do it unless he can show you dyno figures from one he's done before for a similar car. The second hand ones you see at wreckers etc are really cheap and if it's a name brand Jap thing like HKS or Trust you can usually rest assured that it'll work OK. Custom jobs, if they're any good, will usually cost $$$

said it once and ill say it again. the key

#1 get a 3" split dump from BATMBL on the forums - $410 delivered

#2 take pipe to exhaust shop

#3 ask how much to fit #2 and supply 3" hiflow cat and 3" exhaust

id say resonable price for #3 would be $900

most jap kits are $1300 odd unfitted, and are cat back

Pfft sif custom jobs = more $$. I'm sick of the majority of people thinking this. It'd work out to be cheaper than what you'd payed for a full jap system and the thing is it'll work out to be whatever you need it to be. A full jap system shipped from Japan will cost you a stupidly high price, and thats not even if you get rorted by customs yet.

You can get a decent full 3" exhaust brand such as X-Force at local exhaust shops for around $1100 to $1200 fitted. Spend the savings from Jap brand for mods that give you good gains (bleed valves, ecu/piggy backs) And I don't believe there are big power difference with Jap brand, other than sounds.

said it once and ill say it again. the key

#1 get a 3" split dump from BATMBL on the forums - $410 delivered

#2 take pipe to exhaust shop

#3 ask how much to fit #2 and supply 3" hiflow cat and 3" exhaust

id say resonable price for #3 would be $900

most jap kits are $1300 odd unfitted, and are cat back

I'd also look at buying a Magic (see Magic Performance on NissanSilvia) or Catco (see BATBML) cat before hand.

By the way, cat-back Japanese exhausts have fallen a lot in price. You can get the Trust Power Extreme II (or whatever its called) full stainless cat-back for about $800, give or take a few bucks. More expensive brands like Fujitsubo are about the $1000 mark.

Rofl, people over-price JDM exhuast system;

Most of them cost $400 or so brandnew (catback only) then add the price for front and dump pipe looking at like $1000 for full exhuast system then add some shipping maybe around $1300-$1500

And it doesnt take a rocket sciecntest to install an exhuast all u need is a jack and some time

I had to get a custom turbo to cat pipe made up as my car is not a skyline and there was nothing available off the shelf.

I got it done at liverpool exhaust and it was $330. if it was a skyline it would have been $300.

It is a top job. excellent welds and no kinks anywhere. very well made.

I would not do it for a skyline as there is just so much stuff available.

the x-force stuff is OK but the split dump joins to close to the turbo. you would be better off with the one from batmbl. but it is twice the price. but you get what you pay for. his is the best.

you should also get the cat from him.

as for the rest of the system it's up to what you can find secondhand. or you could just buy a cheap x-force catback.

all up you will be spending $1100 plus fitting for a well designed properly flowing system.

Just buy an xforce turbo back exhaust from ebay for $650 and fit it yourself. Thats what I did and I almost gurantee that it performs as well as any of the name brand jap kits from the cat back.

If you want to spend a bit more just get a good quality split dump pipe and high flow cat (although the XForce cat is not to bad). Try getting a custom split dump pipe made up - it will cost you an arm and a leg.

My 2c

custom advantages:

- brand new pipes and mufflers

- to your car's custom specificiation

- you can make the best combo for your car

- cheaper

- hangs high up as its custom made

custom disadvantages:

- no proven power gain

jap-brand advantages:

- tried and tested

jap-brand disadvantages:

- hang very low

- old mufflers that have lost their baffle

- old pipes that are beginning to show signs of ageing

- expensive

jap brands are just not worth it, as you are getting a mass-produced product that never fits as nice as a custom job and costs twice as much for something that is getting old

custom jobs are NEW and CHEAP and CUSTOM to your specific noise and power requirements..

i swear by the custom job

Warren.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...