Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas ===> Not again... :(

gt520

By gt520,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Bugger - new boss kit fitted but still light comes on and the odd unexpected steering input.

Old "dog chewed" steering wheel is going back on for comparo. testing this weekend.

Re: the Mines computer - well it was an unexpected find that I came across when fitting a new stereo.

I know for sure that it has removed speed cut, probably boost cut and rev limit increased also.

The fuel map is probably altered as it runs pretty rich (puff on black smoke on full throttle - flames from zaust on quick throttle off!).

Have a PFC on the way over from Japan and will compare before dyno readings before and after.

GTS-4OrCeD Proficient

GTS-4OrCeD

Posted
Posted

I have an even stranger hicas problem.

Sometimes when driving and I come to a stop (like at the lights or in a traffic jam), then press the accelerator, I lose power steering for quarter of a second and the hicas light flashes quickly.

This ussualy only happens in the rain, or just after it rains.

I know there is a tiny leak in my boot, but I don't think it is letting water under the parcel shelf.

Greg.

BOoStEr Collaborator

BOoStEr

Posted
Posted

When I started my R32 after a week it seemed to crank against some extra load.When it started there was a loud belt scream and the hicas light was on. After about 30 seconds the noise stopped and light went out. Maybe power steer pump was siezed or perhaps a valve or something was stuck in that complicated looking hydraulic gear near the rhs chassis rail. Any ideas?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I've got a R31 GTS-R and it has HICAS too.

What OIL is recommended ?

Is there a specific Brand to put in there... ?

My light flashes on and off as i go over bumps so that's just a case of a little low on the oil ?

  • 2 months later...
gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by GTS-4OrCeD

Sorry i need some help here.  I am guessing when it rains water is getting into one of the sesors (or the HICAS comp).  Has anyone heard of this before, or know where I should check for water leaking in?

Thanks.

Greg.

Greg , unless you have a water leak in the middle of the rear parcel tray , then the puter will be fine.

As I said before , when the problem occurs , dive under the said rear tray and check the code flashes on the bottom or side of the box. Should be a little opening somewhere with a red LED.

Get the number and I will check the manual.

There is something like 20 or 30 different things it could be , so getting the code is going to narrow it down.

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...