Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was looking at these kits damn cheap! i was guna buy just the piping but i was waiting till it went down to 200 it got to 240 then someone started bidding bugger! then was just guna get a gtr cooler

yeah the core is you 600x300x76 and by the looks has nice straight welds and fins and just to make sure i spoke to the supplier and got there opion and a few other people who have purchased and say it ,is equal if not better than hybrid and is very light ,so now i am eagerly waiting ,by the way does any1 have some pics of the cooler install ,in particular with the bar off and showing how it all fits with the reofitted.

thanks :P:O

strange cos usually drift people, or the like strive on response and ideally a smaller core would be preferred. i would have though a 450x300x75 would be more suited as there would be less volume on the inlet system thus reducing throttle lag as much as possible but still retaining a good fmic setup. the arc ones are setup like this and are mega expensive.

is the cooler really a "drift" cooler? just sounds more like a marketing hype

ive got a 600x300 one at home that i never ended up using cos it was too big and ended up getting a 480x300x75 core which worked really well, well i guess compared to the stocker unit anyway. bigger is not always better

strange cos usually drift people, or the like strive on response and ideally a smaller core would be preferred. i would have though a 450x300x75 would be more suited as there would be less volume on the inlet system thus reducing throttle lag as much as possible but still retaining a good fmic setup. the arc ones are setup like this and are mega expensive.

is the cooler really a "drift" cooler? just sounds more like a marketing hype

The brand of the cooler kits is "Drift 1" or as known to some people as D1. That doesn’t mean the coolers are for people who have there cars set up for drift. its quite a popular brand over in the states and the piping is made out aircraft grade quality aluminum. My mate has the D1 kit on his 32 and works great. The piping is perfect with the kits and cooler coolers are good as well however I’m not sure if the coolers are genuine D1 coolers, the piping is though. The cooler my mate got with his kit just look like the hybrid copies that people are selling I may be wrong though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...