Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Just looking for some advice from people with simular set-ups: I'm looking to upgrade my diff, which hasn't given me any problems with 213RWKW, but When I get the car back soon it will have around 300RWKW.

I have looked at a couple of diffs: Nismo 1.5way

Cusco 1.5 way

If anyone could lead me in the right direction, it would be great. I am not looking to run 1/4 miles on the track everyweek, just now & then. I just want to have a reliable diff which will last.

Cheers,

Chris

1995 (LATE) R33 GTS-T M-SPEC SERIES 1.5

NEW FORGED & BLUEPRINTED ENGINE (TOO MUCH TO LIST)

OS GIKEN TWIN PLATE CLUTCH

600 HP GARRETT GT30

HKS 50MM WASTEGATE

Z32 AFM

HKS LOWMOUNT MANIFOLD

APEXI GT SPEC FMIC

BOSCH 044 & SURGE TANK

NISMO 550CC INJECTORS

APEXI POWER FC

BLITZ DUAL SBC

SPLITFIRE COIL PACK

NGK IRIDIUM PLUGS

K&N INDUCTION -- OVAL POD FILTER (LARGE)

18" LENZO ALLOYS

CUSCO OIL CATCH CAN

SETRAB: 19 ROW OIL COOLER & RELOCATION KIT

BRIDGESTONE POTENZA'S (265/35/ZR18 -REAR & 235/40/ZR18 FRONT

NEW BRAKE SET UP SOON

TEIN'S (REAR ONLY)

rebuild/shim up the stock item.

half the price of a brand namer and it does virtually the same job. I love mine to bits.

Mine took a belting for a good 9 months and was no different to the day i got it back.

I expect it too last for a long while yet

If you're going to be launching in a big, viscious way mate, the diff won't be the problem. My advice, get an R33 GTR centre, short shafts, CV shafts and hubs and bolt them into place in your std diff housing and in place of all the other gtst stuff.

That's what I'm doing - i reckon that'd be plenty for your car. You also get to keep the 4.1:1 ratio (same as gtst) which should see you well into 4th gear through the traps.

Good luck

rebuild/shim up the stock item.

half the price of a brand namer and it does virtually the same job. I love mine to bits.

Mine took a belting for a good 9 months and was no different to the day i got it back.

I expect it too last for a long while yet

hmm,

it really depends how much you will be using the lsd.

a shim is ok, but when used for drift for example, it will wear out and start single spinning again in a matter of months.

for drag, a 1-way or 1.5-way is fine. a 2-way is probably not necessary, and less street-able.

hmm,

it really depends how much you will be using the lsd.

a shim is ok,  but when used for drift for example,  it will wear out and start single spinning again in a matter of months.

for drag,  a 1-way or 1.5-way is fine.  a 2-way is probably not necessary, and less street-able.

ill let you know if, and when it dies.

although it got a good flogging @ some drags days thats for sure and a good beating in "private" events.

And he only wants the occasional 1/4 run... gotta justify the cost i guess

ill let you know if, and when it dies.

although it got a good flogging @ some drags days thats for sure and a good beating in "private" events.

And he only wants the occasional 1/4 run... gotta justify the cost i guess

Thanks Ash, & everyone else for their input. I'll have a think about rebuilding my stock diff, but who knows what I will end up doing. I'm going to get rid of the Teins first, & maybe get a complete Whiteline suspension setup.

Cheers,

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...