Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The best setup for a turbo car is for virtually no restriction. The exhaust wheel will spin more freely the less exhaust backpressure there is. A 3.5" system sounds good, and removal of centre mufflers and cat will also work well, the less restriction the better.

See'ya:burnout:

JiMiH,

With a factory turbo on a samll capacity engine then there is almost no benefit to going too big, I'd say that a 4" dump is more than enough.

sidewaymambo,

The best in terms of power is a dump with nothing after it, but this is too loud and the cops will pull you over straight away. A large dump with separate wastegate pipe followed by no cat or cetre muffler and with a muffler at the very end is the best street setup. Be warned however that this is still very loud and no cat is illegal.

See'ya:burnout:

I can testify to my brothers 180SX which runs an apexi N1, fat dump pipe and no cat. Goes like s.hit of a shiny shovel, but the drawbacks are A: no cat's are highly illegal and B: the noise shakes your car port apart when you come home and leave the turbo timer on.

GTSt V-Spec: you know anyone in perth who does good dump pipes?

There are plenty of people who can do a good exhaust dump but I tend to use Genie exhausts in Myaree, they are very good as the do all of the Xspeed work and are now very good at doing custom work for Jap cars.

See'ya:burnout:

I have an R33 with stock turbo + Nismo 3" Cat-back exhaust.

Can someone -please- give me an exact URL of exactly what front section of my exhaust i need to replace the standard section ?

I have absolutely no idea what i need, where to get it done and how much it'll cost but i -do- want to get it done very soon.

benm,

If you go to any exhaust place and ask for a custom turbo dump pipe with separate internal wastegate pipe to connect to your 3" system then they should have no problems. Expect to pay anywhere from $250-$350 for a custom job, you can always buy a Jap dump but they are usually more expensive.

See'ya:burnout:

GODF4Th3R,

Doing everything it alway the best, the dump is very important, but if your strangling it with the front pipe and cat then it's not going to do too much. The exhaust will only flow as well as the most restrictive bit.

Hi-flow cat's are the go, will add a little bit extra power at standard boost, but will make more difference as you increase the power.

See'ya:burnout:

Your dead right, heat is our enemy. By increasing the airflow then the heat is removed via the exhasut system, with a restriction in the exhasut then it causes excessive heating of the turbo exhaust housing and this leads to the car pinging as it pre-heats the air.

See'ya:burnout:

I got XSpeed to get me the whole lot (dump, front pipe and 3" hi flo) They get theirs done at Genie Myaree as GTSt VSpec mentioned earlier. It cost me just under $800.

Apparently, it used to be cheaper as they used different cat(ceramic?), but they tended to break apart. Mine was one of the newer designs. It cost a little more, but I haven't had any problems so far.

Another question; isn't is true that the further from the turbo the restriction (eg the rear silencer) the less effect on back pressure and HP? So if you do the dump and front pipe in a decent size (say 4") then run a high flow cat and legal 3" cat back it should be better than running say a stock dump and front pipe with a 3.5" cat back?

G0DF4Th3R,

Kichigai is right, you can get a complete system from Genie pretty cheap these days, but if you want a name brand muffler like APexi/Trust etc then they cost about $500 by themselves.

Ronin 09,

Yes your right, what happens is that a wave of backpressure, like sound waves, oscillates between the ends of the exhaust system, the further the restrtictions are away the less effect this has on the backpressure and ultimately HP, also the reason tuned length exhaust manifold are better.

See'ya:burnout:

Oh man i wish i could find a workshop that actually knew what they were on about.

Midas had no idea and told me to come back next tuesday when their "exhaust specialist" would be in and Muffler man just told me to go and see a turbo shop.

ARGH maybe i should just walk in somewhere with a $50 note glued to my head so that they realise im serious.

Benm, search the threads for 'exhaust' and see if there are any recommended in Perth. I would get a custom dump and front pipe made for your car instead of getting the Nismo one, as it will be heaps cheaper and do as good a job. Because your Nismo cat back is already pretty quiet, the addition of the dump and front pipe shouldn't add too much dB.

Or you could get a premade dump and front pipe from somewhere like Japanese Motorsport, they have stainless dump pipes for 350 and stainless front pipes for 350. Just make sure they will bolt up to the cat converter in the factory position (assuming you have the stock cat)

-cheers m

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...