Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

kero, a rag, an old credit card, and patience. soak the sticky stuff well with your solvent, then use the credit card to carefully scrape it off. dont go too hard or you'll end up with scratches.

Edited by jezzerrr

Yeah thats the best way. I used a bit of turps on a rag and carefully just let it soak in and it sorta turns it to jelly which is easy scratched off by finger and then just rubbed like hell to get the rest off.

Its a very slow process though.

Im still trying to get all off!

HAH finally!! Was thinking of asking this problem myself!!

Its a right bastard to get off eh?!?! It pisses me off as I lean on the car and it trys to rip the bloody hairs off my arms!!

I will get around to doing it this weekend

Cheers guys!!

The best product to use is probably "SHELLITE", should be able to find it in most supermarkets near the metho. Metho has a brown label, Shellite has the blue label.

I use it at work to remove sticky labels, off the label printers. Doesn't react with the plastic, etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

using kero worked the best for me, i pulled off what i could by hand, then used a cloth to rub the kero on, then it was a matter of scratching the rest off with a credit card.

Only problem is there is a bit of a gap between the rubber and the door frame were the rain guard sat :S

  • 2 weeks later...

lolz...

For the last 20yrs i've always driven with the windows down, even in winter I have to have it cracked atleast 2"...I was actually thinking of getting one of these for my 33 after finding out how much water flows in with the windows even slighty cracked in a light shower..especially when you pull up (bath anyone?)

Anyway to the point, before you guys removed your's did you notice if they actually work at all? being so small I wasnt sure if they'd have any effect.

Cheers Bung.

cheers...appreciated

Ok here it go's. They actually do work pretty well. What it mainly stops is the water that is on the roof filtering down into the car. Without them all the water gathers in the sill and streams into the cabin through the window. I guess if you ever take them off don't wind ur window down for about 2 mins after you take off. Then you'll be sweet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...