Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, as the title states: does anyone know if the 25GT manual gearbox is the same one they use in GTTs?

the reason i ask that is because im planning to turbo my rb25de neo but need to find out if i have to upgrade the gearbox or just the clutch?

cheers

Edited by saga
rebuild the RB25DE into an RB30DET....great engine with a ton of power.

Change the transmission...it will die with that sort of power going through it, upgrade toa  GT-T box.

thanks Dan

so you are saying that the 25gt manual gearbox is different to the gtts one?

have you changed the standard gearbox in your 25gt for the kind of power you are making(150rwkw correct?)?

cheers

Edited by saga
thanks Dan

so you are saying that the 25gt manual gearbox is different to the gtts one?

have you changed the standard gearbox in your 25gt for the kind of power you are making(150rwkw correct?)?

cheers

Yeah the gearboxes are different, very similar but different. I left the auto in my R34...it only had a couple of clutch plates less than the GTT box, and also had a lower stall point so wasn't as excessively abusive on the mechanicals...a manual box would cop it a lot more, so should be swapped.

I don't have that car anymore, it was stolen and written off...so I'm now going through the upgrade process with my new GTT.

Once you've driven a high-compression car with a turbo, it's funny going to the factory lagmonster!

Yeah the gearboxes are different, very similar but different. I left the auto in my R34...it only  had a couple of clutch plates less than the GTT box, and also had a lower stall point so wasn't as excessively abusive on the mechanicals...a manual box would cop it a lot more, so should be swapped.

I don't have that car anymore, it was stolen and written off...so I'm now going through the upgrade process with my new GTT.

Once you've driven a high-compression car with a turbo, it's funny going to the factory lagmonster!

haha thats right! i like the idea of high compression engine with a turbo less lag!

if i leave the factory 10.1 compression and run a turbo with no more than 7psi boost, instead of using a factory gtt turbo, in theory wouldnt i make more power with a bigger bolt on turbo like an gt2835?

im also think an aftermarket high mount manifold, an aftermarket front mount intercooler and a gtt upgrade full exhaust. many of these parts are selling at a bargain price on ebay. hows this package sound to you?

oh and ofcourse PFC!

The only other example of a high-comp R34 turbo conversion was in Greece, it used a TO4E, which spooled up very well with the compression. Best to wait and see what turbo you decide to buy...as you're going to have to get custom piping and flanges for the exhaust and intercooler, nothing on e-bay will really suit.

Don't forget to try and get hold of some GTT injectors, a fuel pump, and an uprated fuel regulator to make tuning more simple.

Here is the other 25GT

R34turb.JPG

The only other example of a high-comp R34 turbo conversion was in Greece, it used a TO4E, which spooled up very well with the compression. Best to wait and see what turbo you decide to buy...as you're going to have to get custom piping and flanges for the exhaust and intercooler, nothing on e-bay will really suit.

Don't forget to try and get hold of some GTT injectors, a fuel pump, and an uprated fuel regulator to make tuning more simple.

Here is the other 25GT

R34turb.JPG

thanks for that,

so heres the plan:

aftermarket high mount manifold designed for rb25det with t3 flange and external wastegate type(i suppose it should be a direct bolt on to rb25de neo right?)

hks gt2835 turbo (as i can buy one off my mate dirty cheap)

external wastegate- just love the sound

and all other gtt parts as you mentioned above.

now just two questions: which type of PFC to get? and what about the stock airbox? would it be sufficient? or need custom intakes too?

cheers

OK...both of these cars used the e-manage, but I'm 99.9% sure you'll be fine using the normal GTT PFC, as all the connections and ECU sockets are the same. The only thing I think you'll neeed to invest in is the optional pressure sensor for the PFC. The GTT has one connected from factory, this will most likely be the input that would confuse it, if it wasn't there.

Stock airbow should be fine, put a pod in if you feel the need.

Can you get me one of these dirt cheap turbo's? :D

OK...both of these cars used the e-manage, but I'm 99.9% sure you'll be fine using the normal GTT PFC, as all the connections and ECU sockets are the same. The only thing I think you'll neeed to invest in is the optional pressure sensor for the PFC. The GTT has one connected from factory, this will most likely be the input that would confuse it, if it wasn't there.

Stock airbow should be fine, put a pod in if you feel the need.

Can you get me one of these dirt cheap turbo's? :)

well not exactly dirty cheap, its a garret turbo dont know the specs yet but similar to a GT35, for under 2k. cheap in comparison to an internal wastegated hks gt3037 which retails like 5k if im not wrong.

so yeah sure mate, if u want one i guess i could get u one. no worries

OK...both of these cars used the e-manage, but I'm 99.9% sure you'll be fine using the normal GTT PFC, as all the connections and ECU sockets are the same. The only thing I think you'll neeed to invest in is the optional pressure sensor for the PFC. The GTT has one connected from factory, this will most likely be the input that would confuse it, if it wasn't there.

Stock airbow should be fine, put a pod in if you feel the need.

Can you get me one of these dirt cheap turbo's? :(

you would probably need custom pod intake to make room for the highmount

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...