Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We have been doing heaps of tests on oils recently, as we have set up a test using a head in a jig tied into a lathe. The head is then spun at 6000rpm with a syrenge set up on a timer to periodically drop 20ml of oil on the the cam lobes with the test performed for 20mins on each oil. The cam and all related valvetrain is then swapped for another set of new gear so we can gauge exactly what each oil is doing. The tests we are doing are a little crude as compared to full laboritory testing but funnily enough castrol has been sending us samples of new oils they are releasing, initially i think to see if we knew what we were doing but now as a secondary source of info.

The problem is each year oil companys are under stricter and stricter regualations on emissions which means they are removing good minerals and chemicals that prelong engine life and stop engine wear.

It has been very interesting to see what some of the oils have done under the testing. Synthetics are generally half as good as even the cheapest mineral oil, but alot of cars must run synthetic for the weight properties. I dont want to bad mouth any oils and I wont but from our tests, if you want a good synthetic oil for your car run a motor bike oil like motul or repsoil. The oil for motorbikes doesnt need to meet emissions testing and it it designed better as in a bike it has to be under more loads as the gearbox uses the same oil. About the closest to these in terms of performance in our testing would be redline synthetic, and motul 300. There are few good other ones but these few I have mentioned are easily available to most of you guys.

Hope this helps

Castrol was quite good with there mineral 20-50w oil being one of the very best commercial oils and its a good price. There synthetics were better than alot of the others but still not what you would want for the price you pay, alot better than the other major three if you can read between the lines.

For a more standard engine ie, standard lift, duration, valve spring rates its is sufficient!! PM If you want some direct comparisons!!

Cheers.

Gearbox redline light weight shock proof

diff redline mt90

gtr tranfers DONT USE REDLINE you most use the matic d nissan oil if you want it to last (this came from a head more knowledgable than myself who had rebuilt a shit load of transfers)

engine mobile 1 is good so is the redline products

I use redline light wieght shock proof in the transfer too... its great no complaints so far :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...