Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Ever since I got my skyline I had always wanted a semi-decent plate to set it off.

I was particulary looking at the "Customised Yellow" plates, with something like "BR3TT" or something cool.

But for some of the things I've entered, and that have been available, the price of $400 seems to be the go.

I was just wondering what you guys thought on it..

Insurance + Rego is enough, and copable on the job i have, especially for a Learner, but $400 seems to just ad onto the never ending list.. lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90036-number-plates-worth-it/
Share on other sites

Yep, I think its worth it.

on my daily driver lancer I have SP 983 in blue to match the car(initials and date of birth ie september 83)

and on my line I have SL 32 IM in red. cos black car with red plates looks hawt

so my nicname including the car I drive, R32. :P

Edited by sl!m
I think it should only be ~ $130 on white or coloured plates as it's the same format as general release plates.

If you get it on yellow, then you'll be hit with the $400 fee.

edit

Cost: $30.00 ordering fee plus annual fee of $90.00

BRE 37T

Edited by sl!m

i personally don't like the coloured plates. i think they look pretty tacky. there is only one plate i ever considered for the GTR and i got it thank god The cool thing is i got the same plate for the soarer (sort of). If i hadn't got that i would have just gone general issue. though i do hate the new AA 99 AA format the old AAA 999 looked better i think.

I think it should only be ~ $130 on white or coloured plates as it's the same format as general release plates.

If you get it on yellow, then you'll be hit with the $400 fee.

Yeah lol I typed it in wrong <_< :D

I'm not 100% on what I'm gonna do. To be totally honest I don't like the look of BRE - 37T

I never really liked the look of coloured plates, but it might look semi-decent on the skyline.

If I had it my way, and a yearly fee of $400 wasn't in play, i'd grab BR3TT right now..

Thanks for your thoughts/suggestions/help guys.. It's appreciated. We'll see what happens.

Anything's worth what you're willing to pay for it.

The only waste of $400 a year bigger than plates with some pithy (pseudo-)word would be if I just went to a bank, withdrew $400 in 5c pieces, let the bank take their handling fee, and then poured the difference down a drain.

If it were a one-off cost, maybe....but I'm not going to pay upkeep on something as useless as a license plate.

$400 a year would pay for a Comp-R semi-slick with some change, or maybe 2 street tyres, or bits and pieces for my car, or any range of stuff that would have a tangible benefit to the way my vehicle performs.

But, that's just my thoughts and my priorities (which you asked for, before all the vanity plate fans tell me to STFU).

If you feel that your automotive goals aren't complete unless your car has a thin sheet of metal screwed to the bumpers of your car, with up to 6 alphanumeric characters that you'll never see while operating said vehicle and enjoying your apparent sports car the way the manufacturer intended, then by all means go ahead.

Given your limited budget, you can't afford to modify it with all the performance parts you want and a set of vanity plates, you just need to decide what part of the automotive experience is more important to you....

lol no work ,no plates.

mine have gone (GRUNTN rip) i loved my plate owned it for 5yrs

mm :P 5x400=$2000 for five years that's a big plate :) hehehe it depends on what you want for your car. you can have alot of fun with plates. its funny when people read and say the plate when your driving then turn there head just to make sure it's on the back aswell.

:lol: $400 is nothing if you own a skyline!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: this plate is available ( F8L ) n.s.w custom

Edited by BIKES

scathing thanks for your opinion.

The thing is, with the "do up your car" posts, with the NSW P Plater rule, and not being able to drive a turbo, i'm pretty limited.

My car has a 400R front bar, veilside skirts and veilside backs, 18" rims and modded dash and sound system, anything cosmetic is basically done and looks awesome.

My dream is to get a R34 GTT when I get off my P's, rather then do up my R33 to make it turbo.

When it comes down to it, Plates might be the go, considering as I've mentioned, the kit, sound system, modded dash etc is complete, not much more to do.

I'm still undecided, and my parents were talking to me and they might be coming to the party and paying them for me.. (maybe) :)

Thanks again for the opinions, and you can keep them coming.

$400 would buy springs, or most of the way to a set of swaybars. Better tyres aren't banned under the new laws (although on 18" you'd be lucky to get one semi-decent tyre), and a set of decent sports brake pads are available.

What kind of tyres are you running? How are your brakes going?

Who said anything about turbo'ing your R33? There's more to performance than going fast; all the Jap import guys get all snotty over bogans with the fact that their cars stop and handle better than some Falcodore. Why not improve on a good thing?

Or, since you're planning on getting rid of the car and buying another one as soon as you can...you could just stick the money in the bank or spend it on stuff that has a higher return. Mods don't really increase the value of the car, and getting rid of them on the second hand market won't see you get too much back.

You could also do an advanced driver training course every year and / or a couple of track days, to learn more skills and to keep them sharp.

But, as I said, it depends on what your priorities are. If you're after something to work on the driving craft rather than something to be seen in, there's still plenty you could do to make your car go quicker point to point without violating the law. New suspension, new brakes, grippier tyres and weight reduction don't "modify engine performance", and its always a good feeling to outrun someone with more power than you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...