Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How good is the dataloging function?

Thanks

apparently it logs just about everything, hence being called "datalogit" lol.

Come on guys, we need a few more and I can place an order and get my car tuned!!!

If no-one registers anymore interest soon, I am thinking about shelling out the full price.. :D

  • Replies 244
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well for starters with fc datalogit you can build a visual knock map. that is datalog for a 20 minute driving session, logging

airflow meter

speed

revs

knock

inj duty

ing value

then colllate all the data into excel and plot the highest knock on a 20 x 20 matching to the rpm and load axis from the airflow meter. you then have a 20 x 20 view of the highest knock for each cell. so you can work out how much timing you can afford to advance in each cell. you can do the same on the hand controller just takes more time and pressing buttons

hi would i be able to get one for an s15, fc d jetro, for that price

yes, they are listed on the datalogit website.

here is a list of models that are supported.

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/model-status.html

Updated List guys... We only need 3 more people and I can make the order. Paul33, are you interested?

1. The Mafia

2. Beer Baron

3. Stolly

4. Snowman

5. Bl4cK32

6. yogi000

7. Ryosuke Takahashi

8. aznprick2c

For those that want a look at the software, click this link, and you can actually click on the tabs etc to bring up that page of settings. Some very interesting setting in there.

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/map-rx7-fcedit.html

Updated List guys... We only need 3 more people and I can make the order. Paul33, are you interested?

1. The Mafia - R33 GTS-T Datalogit Version - GTS-T v1:100

2. Beer Baron

3. Stolly

4. Snowman

5. Bl4cK32

6. yogi000

7. Ryosuke Takahashi

8. aznprick2c - SR-20 - FCDatalogit Version - SR-20 v1:110

9. Gav - GTR (BNR32 D-Jetro model) - FCDatalogit Version - GTR v1:110

For those that want a look at the software, click this link, and you can actually click on the tabs etc to bring up that page of settings. Some very interesting setting in there.

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/map-rx7-fcedit.html

Guys, can you let me know the model of your car and I will work out what version of datalogit you will need.

Oh, and make sure you let me know what version of powerfc you are running. Its shows it as you first turn on the ignition.

Edited by The Mafia

Price is AUD, delivered. I think it's pretty damn good.

1 more person and I can make the order. Paul33, are you interested?

1. The Mafia - R33 GTS-T Datalogit Version - GTS-T v1:100

2. Beer Baron

3. Stolly

4. Snowman

5. Bl4cK32

6. yogi000

7. Ryosuke Takahashi

8. aznprick2c - SR-20 - FCDatalogit Version - SR-20 v1:110

9. Gav - GTR (BNR32 D-Jetro model) - FCDatalogit Version - GTR v1:110

10. Dale FZ1

For those that want a look at the software, click this link, and you can actually click on the tabs etc to bring up that page of settings. Some very interesting setting in there.

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/map-rx7-fcedit.html

Edited by The Mafia

I am interested, $450 au is pretty good.

When do we have to pay, and what method?

Snowman has bnr34 so GTSTv1 wont be suitable (unless its for another car?)

Do we have official support from the supplier and are we going to have that silly 6 monthg waiting period to join their forums?

Price is $425AUD, delivered. I think it's pretty damn good.

We now have enough. Thanks Paul :(

1. The Mafia - R33 GTS-T Datalogit Version - GTS-T v1:100

2. Beer Baron

3. Stolly

4. Snowman

5. Bl4cK32 - GTS-T - v1:100

6. yogi000

7. Ryosuke Takahashi

8. aznprick2c - SR-20 - FCDatalogit Version - SR-20 v1:110

9. Gav - GTR (BNR32 D-Jetro model) - FCDatalogit Version - GTR v1:110

10. Dale FZ1

11. Paulr33

Guys, I need to know what cars you have so I can work out what models you will need.

Let me know asap!!!

For those that want a look at the software, click this link, and you can actually click on the tabs etc to bring up that page of settings. Some very interesting setting in there.

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/map-rx7-fcedit.html

Edited by The Mafia

well, I am not sure. If you wanted to, I could take all the payments and give them and the order with all of the datalogit details to the provider.

Bare in mind that these could take up to 3 weeks to deliver as there is a shortage or something.

Direct Deposit would be easy as.

Also, I really need everyone to give me the details of what datalogit they will need that wil suit their car.

Let me know ASAP!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...