Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i wanna get involved in comptitive motorsport.. probably improved  production series, of maybe even jus club stuff

car is a 180sx, with rb25det, s15 front.

prepared to stip interior, do full cams cage, fuell cell etc,

what exactly is needed???

thanks

ryan

0410 332 673

Hi Ryan, trying desparately not to rain on your parade.

Improved Production regs require an engine with same number of cylinders as the car came with standard and the engine must come from the same manufacturer. So the 6 cylinder RB in a 180SX (that came with a 4 cylinder) is a no go. Plus the body panels must be standard, except the front bumper and rear spoiler. So the S15 front is a no go as well.

You could run it as a Sports Sedan, no problems with the engine swap and you might get away with the S15 front. But they are seriously fast, faster than a V8Supercar, so the competition is hot.

I am not sure what to suggest to get you racing, other than change cars. Maybe try a few Spersprints first and see how you like the circuits. No problems with running in them, very few sports sedans, so not a lot of competion. And you can get mixed in with Skylines and others on the day for some fun.

Join SAU and then look for invites to circuits that interest you. I am sure the guys will help uou out with a standard set of supersprint Sup Regs that you can study. Maybe pop out to an event before you run one to get a feel for what goes on and the types and speed of the cars.

:D cheers :O

sorry mate

but u can't racce in improved production with a 180sx with a rb25det, change from 4 to 6 cylinder is not allowed.

if you've never done track stuff before, do some track days man, best way to get a feel, have a chat to the guys u meet there, most are pretty friendly and you'll have a ball in the process.

Well doing some motorsport and getting into state level circuit racing are very different things. There's absolutely no problem running an rb25 180sx in superspirints, hillclimbs, track days etc etc etc

it might get classed as a sports sedan but that doesn't stop anyone having fun :D, and it may well be one the pace for supersprinting with some work anyway :O

What you need for most CAMS events are:

Fire extinguisher within reach of the driver, at least 0.9kg.

Blue triangle on the body showing where the battery is

Often you need a "secondary bonnet restraint" to stop the bonnet opening if the main catch fails. The easiest way is a belt or rope around the bonnet, but you can also use a range of bonnet pins if you are willing to take a chance on road legality

You will need:

Kneck to ankle clothing, not synthetic

ADR approved helmet.

And that is it for the regs for pretty much any CAMS event other that circuit racing. And if you are getting started supersprints (3-5 timed laps with a few other cars) and hillclimbs (closed road timed run) are where you want to start, as well as some proper driver training like Peter Findlay offers in NSW.

Where are you based?

Well you should join up with SAU NSW, we can organise the CAMS license for you and it will make sure you find out about the events we are doing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=44115

Next big event is the Bathurst hillclimb and supersprint first weekend of December.

You do not need a cage, seat, seatbelts etc for a road regoed car in CAMS events except racing.

Personally I think that a fixed seat and 4 point harness are a great addition when on the track, but they are an absolute pain in the arse for daily driving, don't underestimate how much it will sh1t you having to undo a harness to get your drive thru...or pay a toll....or get petrol...etc etc

If you do want to do full on circuit racing you need to get hold of the CAMS manual. Like everyone said above because you have changed to 6 cylinder, Sports Sedans is pretty much the only category you could race in, and you would be competing against 6 litre space frame chevs and 20b capris :) If you still want to go that way you will need a CAMS approved cage (can't do it yourself you need an approved builder to do it), seat, harness, tailshaft loop, window nets, ignition kill switch, front and rear tow points, and enough stickers to make a honda owner jealous.

Basically improved production is free as far as the block goes as long as you use a 6 cylinder nissan block. Head, inlet, exhaust and turbos are free.

But the big problem is that turbo cars have to run air intake restrictors, which in the the GTR are 2x27mm from memory.

On the other hand GTRs with standard motors and turbos are eligible for Production Cars (3E) and that is a very different story...there we can kick arse :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...