Jump to content
SAU Community

Winding Up Boost On A 33 Gtst

r33nut

By r33nut,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33nut Apprentice

r33nut

Posted
Posted

Put a boost tap in last week and have been playing round with it. My car only has the standard gtst intercooler. Could someone experienced and mechanically minded tell me what the max boost that I should run it on without the intake temps getting too high or the a/f mix becoming lean. Seems to hold 12psi fairly well.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90503-winding-up-boost-on-a-33-gtst/
Share on other sites
TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted

I personally run ~9.5psi with full exhaust and it's fine.

With summer coming, I wouldn't want to run anymore through the standard cooler personally. You're risking too much money for a couple of extra KW :D

r33nut Apprentice

r33nut

Posted
  • Author
Posted
huh, i personally wouldnt go over 11 psi to be safe with a bigger intercooler

13 is to much for stock turbo

Not worried about the turbo. It puts out fine. Im worried about the piston and rings. Thats it.

One other question. Is the car speed limited? I've nearly reached the top of 5th and haven't found one, yet people tell me it's limited to 180km/h.

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted
serious? u held 14psi wit standard ecu, standard computer?

god mine wouldnt even let me get to 14psi...cuts out

not even 12psi

well count urself lucky, if the ecu let u do that, u would soon have no turbo, and possibly more problems, 12psi is within the limits, possibly even 11psi, push it more and ur asking for some trouble

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted
Not worried about the turbo. It puts out fine. Im worried about the piston and rings. Thats it.

One other question. Is the car speed limited? I've nearly reached the top of 5th and haven't found one, yet people tell me it's limited to 180km/h.

are you really doing 180 ?

when they are imported they are fitted with an 180km speed limiter as part of compliance, this is easily bypassed and removed, so its possible that its removed, technically u shouldnt be able to top out 4th (on a manual)

which i have never tried, cause those speeds on the road are a little bit stupid u know ...

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

10psi for me, never any more.

and if u reached the top of fifth(250km/h) u have your speed limiter removed

at higher boost you should worry about your turbo not your motor. the standard ecu will go rich and retard and it should feel slow anyway.

r33nut Apprentice

r33nut

Posted
  • Author
Posted
serious? u held 14psi wit standard ecu, standard computer?

god mine wouldnt even let me get to 14psi...cuts out

not even 12psi

lol... my car is well looked after. Im an apprentice mech.

plus I put out the exta dosh for bp ultimate :D

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted

Not to mention that the turbo would be working harder to push that much air through the stock cooler (as I've been told they are pretty restrictive)

Personally, I'd recommend no more than 10psi. Who knows, if your turbo blows, you could end up with nasty bits in your engine, not really worth it....

r33nut Apprentice

r33nut

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not to mention that the turbo would be working harder to push that much air through the stock cooler (as I've been told they are pretty restrictive)

Personally, I'd recommend no more than 10psi.  Who knows, if your turbo blows, you could end up with nasty bits in your engine, not really worth it....

Thanks Tomm0. This is exactly the sort of stuff I want to find out. Thats something I haven't thought about. What damage could it cause if the turbo blows?

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
lol... my car is well looked after. Im an apprentice mech.

plus I put out the exta dosh for bp ultimate  :D

it does not matter what fuel or what u are, if u run 14psi the turbo is sure to die soon after some hard use. do a search on stock turbo and u will see why, but simply put, the exhaust wheel is ceramic, and does not handle heat well.

cerci Proficient

cerci

Posted
Posted

haha whoaaa watch out people, hes an apprentice!!! lol just joking, yea i use the good fuel also...

Coupe This: i had no intention of running 14psi! it was set to 12psi....held it flat up a hill...major cut out, dont want that again, dont even want it at 10psi, raising the boost wit mostly standard parts dosnt enhance performance at all, car runs slower at any boost above 9 or 10 or 11....its set at standard until i put my power fc, bosh 040 pump, fuel presure reg and cam gears in, than i will have it at a max of 12psi

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted

It's more a matter of keeping the heat as low as possible. The figure most people use is 13psi, but if you go on track days it might blow up at 11psi due to the heat, simply too hard to predict.

With a FMIC, most people run 12psi without any problems.

r33nut Apprentice

r33nut

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Dont intend on going to track days until I have all the stuff to handle long periods of high load. At the moment I only give it hard for a couple of minutes at a time. Or drag it on the quarter mile.

Cheers for the productive answers Tomm0

10psi sound like the go till FMIC is in then i'll see how 12psi goes.

Edited by r33nut
Tigger Collaborator

Tigger

Posted
Posted

I would have wagered a bet that your turbo would have blown within the month if you kept it running at 14psi.

Its all about what you want: A quick high or reliable buzz?

I dont really understand how it works but from what I've read, the stocker experiences diminishing returns after 12psi.

Personal recommendation? I reckon keep it at 10psi until you get a FMIC, especially with the hotter summer days approaching.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...