Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Autospeedbits.com.au - SAU Special!

NEW GENUINE Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler Kits (Tube & Fin)

Kit Includes:

  • Full Polished Tube and Fin Front Mount Intercooler.
  • Lightweight Aluminum Piping in blue, Red or silver.
  • Stainless Steel T-Bolt Race Clamps.
  • Mounting brackets and bolts.
  • Simple Step-by-step instructions.
  • 12 Months Warranty.

Intercooler Kits Link

Intercooler kit available for the following:

  • Mitsubishi EVO4, 5 and 6.
  • Subaru WRX/STI 96-00 GC8.
  • Nissan Pulsar GTI-R.
  • Nissan Skyline R33 GTS.
  • Nissan S13 Silvia / 180SX.
  • Nissan S14 – S15 200SX / Silvia.
  • Toyota JZA80 Supra.

PRICING:

  • $745.00 + delivery charges.

They backed with a 1 year warranty.

DELIVERY INFO:

We are located in Rowville, Victoria and pickup is available. All items will need to be paid for in advance. Items can be sent out anywhere in Australia through courier with full insurance and bubble wrapped to reduce the risk of damage (original manufacturer packaging).

FREIGHT PRICES:

VIC: $40

NSW, SA: $50

QLD: $60

WA, NT: $70

HOW TO ORDER:

Send an email to: [email protected] and let us know what item you are after, and what car is it for. We will respond within 24 hours with a confirmation email and payment instructions.

http://www.autospeedbits.com.au

post-8638-1128944637.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90632-hybrid-intercooler-kits-sau-special/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Baz: We always welcome feedback. Well so far of all the places I know of selling Hybrid Intercooler Kits, we are selling it cheaper. if you are talking about "no name brand" intercooler kits then offcourse they will be cheaper.

We have sold a few of these kits and they look good and perform well.

Sorry we only sell full kits in theHybrid brand.

However check this product out.

http://www.autospeedbits.com.au/ProductDetail.asp?id=107

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I have one of these i recently installed.

Quick question to anyone who can help - where do you connect the positive pressure signal hose for your boost controller?? (the other hose goes to the wastegate actuator)

the stock piping has a little "nipple" just after the turbo outlet that the tube joins on to.

The Hybrid piping kit does not have this nipple. Almost every piping kit i have seen DOES have this nipple.

Where did you guys plug in your positive pressure tube for the EBC??

At the moment i have it plugged into the tube for the fuel reg, but this sees vacuum also, which apparently is not that good for the EBC to be doing its thing.

Any help muchly appreciated.

Hi Beeble,

I have contacted Hybrid and awaiting their reply. I will let you know their reply as soon as I get it.

Meanwhile I will ask previous customers that I think also have Boost Controllers with their Hybrid Kits and see what they have done.

Thanks

Hybrid sent the attached photo of an R33 and said:

"Please tell your customer that he can just T piece it from where the hose coming out from the intake manifold, you can see that hose in the middle of the provided picture".

Hope this helps.

post-8638-1136433585.jpg

That looks quite different to my R33 manifold, but yes, thanks, that is pretty much what i have done.

Will be getting my car tuned soon anyways so i'll get them to check it out for me.

Cheers.

  • 1 month later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...