Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

b4 any one starts yes i have searched and read, and called performance places and........had a pull in the process

My dilemma, I have a 89 r32 GTR pretty stock, just spun the clutch now slips almost all the time no new news there. Im looking at pumping around 300kwaw ish, and have been recommended a few different clutches, my car is a daily driver but also I drive my cars hard……..”ice performance”, and “race pace” have recommended a similar set up a excedy heavy duty cushion button clutch “10 puck was mentioned” and have told me that should be great for the power im after, not slip, take launches, and last for quite a while.

But other sources have told me as soon as I start to approach the 300kw mark it will spin….and have recommended a 3 or 4 puck excedy….keeping that in mind I have been told a 4 puck may only last me 2-3months……..

You can see that im getting nowhere fast each view contradicts the other…..and vice versa

I’m hoping to go single plate, at the moment any way

Just hoping some one can help verify whats been said just to make it a little more simple

1. I plan to run 300kwaw give or take

2. Don’t want clutch to spin

3. Want it to last

4. Want single plate

5. will be doing 6k launches

6. Don’t want to spend more then 2k

What will meet my criteria ??

Thanks :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90766-345-puckcushion-button-10puck/
Share on other sites

call up xtreme clutch... they have MANY clutches to suit you... or try www.xtremeclutch.com.au

I've heard they have some great 9 puck clutches (ceramic), which have very nice power handling and aren't much different to stock to drive on! :)

But generally, the less the number of pucks, and the higher rated the pressure plate, the harder it will be to drive.

Less pucks = pickup is ALOT more sudden, as you're applying all the clamping force over a much smaller area... aka. jerky! can't really ride them as much - not that you should ride your clutch... I personally wouldn't go for a 3 puck clutch... lowest is probably 5 puck i'd go, then i'd go to a twin plate or similar (for street use).

The higher rated the pressure plate, the stronger the clamping force. While this sounds good, it will also be alot "heavier" on your leg... which again, affects driveability (makes it harder to "modulate" the clutch).

Nismo Coppermix twin plate is around $2k from nengun. Will take that much power and drives like a stock car. There are at least two GTRs I know of running this clutch on here and they both say its fantastic.

Other than that - Jim Berry in QLD would be able to build you a clutch to suit your application. Search the forums for his name.

Nismo coppermix twin plate , fantastic clutch and it feels almost like a stocker , especialy if you use the bigger nismo slave with it .

It comes with a lighter flywheel a new release bearing and new flywheel bolts .

I dont know if you can get a push nismo twin clutch to suit your 99 32 , check it out on the Nismo website .

b4 any one starts yes i have searched and read, and called performance places and........had a pull in the process

My dilemma, I have a 89 r32 GTR pretty stock, just spun the clutch now slips almost all the time no new news there. Im looking at pumping around 300kwaw ish, and have been recommended a few different clutches, my car is a daily driver but also I drive my cars hard……..”ice performance”, and “race pace”  have recommended a similar set up a excedy heavy duty cushion button clutch “10 puck was mentioned” and have told me that should be great for the power im after, not slip, take launches, and last for quite a while.

But other sources have told me as soon as I start to approach the 300kw mark it will spin….and have recommended a 3 or 4 puck excedy….keeping that in mind I have been told a 4 puck may only last me 2-3months……..

You can see that im getting nowhere fast each view contradicts the other…..and vice versa

I’m hoping to go single plate, at the moment any way

Just hoping some one can help verify whats been said just to make it a little more simple

1. I plan to run 300kwaw give or take

2. Don’t want clutch to spin

3. Want it to last

4. Want single plate

5.            will be doing 6k launches

6. Don’t want to spend more then 2k

What will meet my criteria ??

Thanks  :O

You're going to get different opinions here as well.

One thing is for sure. Do not get a solid centre clutch.

My opinion: I have a Jim berry clutch which cost around the $1000 mark, i drive my car daily and take it to the track, seems to be holding up well and is very easy to drive. I would recommend one of these, or get Ben from Racepace to get you one of the single plates he uses. also around the same price. Frank runs over 350rwkw and used one of the clutches Ben got for 2-3 years. and he doesn' go easy on his car :)

sewid is on the money go the Nismo Coppermix or get in contact with Jim Berry (Race Clutch) on (07) 3847 9999. Jim is very renown for making clutches that can handle abuse and last.

Over the years I have used so many clutches it is ridiculous. I was spending at least $1000 a clutch and they were running out faster than my fuel. I finally spoke to some guys in the know and they sent me down to "BGT Brakes" in Dandy. Anyway $400 later they had built me a 4 button ceramic clutch that they recon will last at least 3 years of hard driving. So far I have given it a very hard time and have also taken it to a few track days, feels as good as the day I got it.

I installed this clutch myself so all up it cost me just $400.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...