Jump to content
SAU Community

Tv In Stagea

NissanTRX

By NissanTRX,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
thedriver Community Regular

thedriver

Posted
Posted

I received this reply today from Xanavi:

Thank you for choosing Xanavi products.

Your using Navigation is designed only for Japanese market, not operative in Australia.

Therefore, we're afraid that we don't have any user manual in English or amap of Australia.

This unit is not possible to be converted to English.

1.Are you able to supply me with the specifications of this unit?

→　We're sorry we do not supply any specifications to our customers.

2.Do you have a manual for it in English?

→　No, we don't.

3.Can the unit be converted to English or is an English EEPROM available?

→　No, the unit can not be converted to English. There is no English EEPROM available for this unit.

4.Are you able to supply me with a new EEPROM?

→　No, there is no EEPROM available.

We truly appreciate your patience and understanding.

If you have any furthen questions, please contact us by fax.

Thank you very much.

Sincerely.

Naomi Niida

Customer Relations Group

Xanavi Informatics Corporation

fax +81-46-259-1317

I'm hoping that I can reprogram the EEPROM and convert all the buttons to English text. Anyone know anyone that can help me with that?

thedriver Community Regular

thedriver

Posted
Posted
i could have anything japanese translated, just send me the text or photos. How will you go about converting the gps system ?

Will do - thanks. I've also got a friend who can translate, but it would be good to get it up here for everyone else.

It seems the GPS possibly can't be converted. I haven't played around too much with GPS / Navigation systems, but i think each navigation system is proprietary and given the Xanavi don't make maps for Australia, it will likely be impossible to convert. Perhaps the best bet would be to connect anoth GPS / Navigation system (TomTom, Navman etc) to the input of the screen...

Any other thoughts???

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

update, have bought a NTSC converter,

http://www.threedoubleyou.com/cdm660.htm

connected it after the 12v digital box, then into the VTR2 plug and have got an acceptable picture, actually quite a good picture, just need to hardwire everything in, with sound going straight from the STB into my LINE IN on my head unit. Had some trouble keeping the widescreen ratio, but eventually found the correct touchscreen button to change between ratios.

post-780-1135321458.jpg

thedriver Community Regular

thedriver

Posted
Posted
update, have bought a NTSC converter,

http://www.threedoubleyou.com/cdm660.htm

connected it after the 12v digital box, then into the VTR2 plug and have got an acceptable picture, actually quite a good picture, just need to hardwire everything in, with sound going straight from the STB into my LINE IN on my head unit. Had some trouble keeping the widescreen ratio, but eventually found the correct touchscreen button to change between ratios.

That is AWESOME. Nice work.

Have you got pics of the placement of your STB and Converter? Have you rewired the IR receiver for the STB to the console?

Have you got a seperate aftermarket head unit as well?

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

Got the IR sorted, just desoldered and extended the one on the STB, prob hide it inside a vent on the dash. Just going to drop them in the rear left 1/4 panel, prob just have them loose, wrapped in foam, they fit quite snug, but have to allow enough ventilation. Havnt been able to find a signal wire to turn the boxes on only when VTR2 is selected, so prob have them wired with ACC.

  • 1 year later...
Silverback Community Regular

Silverback

Posted
Posted

I've bought a new Head Unit DVD/Cd Player. I still have the original Pioneer Jap gear in there. The new head unit has a built in NTSC/PAL selector for output. I was wondering whether this would work if I hooked it up to the existing screen (I assume its an NTSC Screen).

Any ideas?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...