Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have finally got my car few days ago. However, I have one problem… whenever I turn full right or left, there are noises like “pluk, pluk, pluk pluk…..” and the car jerks a little. Anyone knows what might be the cause? I suspect the ex owner lock the diff / LSD… Anyway, is it safe to drive at this setup?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/
Share on other sites

Sounds like ure spot on there mate.

It wont be fully locked or ud know about it. EEEE round every corner hehe.

Should be ok to drive but it kills ure tyres reel fast which can be annoying but u have a real drift moblie there now:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-19475
Share on other sites

the sound + jerk only appear when i release the cluch + turning... Cannot notice any problem when i hold down my cluch when turning... BTW whats the logic/theory behind it?

Another problem i am facing now is that when i am crusing at low speed, i can hear "gluk.. gluk... gluk..." from rear (sounds like from suspention). What might be the cause?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-19942
Share on other sites

yeah fat if you want I'll swap you with a perfectly good normal one :-)

Btw the chances are you car has a 2 way diff which is a much tigher locking one. they take some gettign used to and are used on track cars etc they make it eaiser to drift as well.

seriously if you do want to swp I'll swap with you

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-20055
Share on other sites

Meggala,

Funny you should say that.... I've got a mechanical Cusco??? in mine and I'm thinking about swapping it for a normal one.....But if they are as good as I hear they are I might hang onto it .

It's hard for me to compare the difference betweena normal LSD R33 and a mechanical (performance wise) cause my R33 is the only one I've driven ;)

Are they THAT much better than the stock ones?

Thanks

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-20066
Share on other sites

Damn, now i am soo confuse... Tim from RPM told me that my diff is gone (base on the sound/ jerking) and required a replacement ($1600) but i dont think he suspect my diff might be machanical diff (btw he didnt really test my car yet.)... If i dont replace it, my car will brake down soon!! However, when i went to another machanic shop (A1), they suspect my car has diff lock like what you guys suggested, but they need an appointment to really check the car... Blah soo confuse i am.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-20077
Share on other sites

Just drove a car with a VERY tight LSD... not nissan lsd if that's what you mean...

CLICK CLUNCK CLICK/ JERK / and on gravel all you hear is ksschcchhhh...

They grip like shit to a blanket. very nice stuff.

Don't take what I say for gospel, but it sounds like the diff's fine. just locked....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-20554
Share on other sites

When u go round a corner your inside wheel turns slower than the outside.

If your diff was fully locked ure inside wheel would spin every corner cause the diff would be "locked" together so both wheels would be rotating the same speed.

Good for straight lines cause u get 'even' power but not good for corners and control.

Most lsd:limited slip diff cars have a viscous fluid which transferrs power but some of the hardcore fellas have mechanical which i think work something like a clutch so u actually have metal on metal whiuch would exsplain the pluk pluk pluk (the sounbd of the diff moving against itself.

Hey all the actual mechs outthere correct me if im wrong:uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-23936
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Boostzor

Most lsd:limited slip diff cars have a viscous fluid which transferrs power but some of the hardcore fellas have mechanical which i think work something like a clutch so u actually have metal on metal which would explain the pluk pluk pluk (the sound of the diff moving against itself.

Its a mechanical thing a welder can lock a diff just fine:)

Get a ball point pen that "kliks" notice the little piece of plastic that wont move when pushed "twist" lightly but will when u push"twist" hard.I think thats how it works

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/912-lsd-diff-question/#findComment-23962
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol a few are like that with no intention of being reborn unfortunately. 
    • Done, I'll do mine soon too - whenver I take out the car next. I can cheat and make it quieter by turning off VCT at idle too - but I lose the braps
    • All trim back in wired running driving. Few things to follow up on but not far off the return to the road. att.6HN4wP38LTIOISkhA8eACoBFqzfgQMahZPLA8ut0pqE.mp4 att.w2q0ux2PGuqgQTj2Os13cNHQtqcSEcCAhD_CAXy_IQM.mp4
    • The trouble with phone apps is that they really do not know the sensitivity of the mic on each specific phone, whether there is some sort of cover or skin that can change that, etc etc. So the readings off them are not calibrated. You certainly couldn't be sure that you were even within 3 dB. I have the same app on two (actually more than that) different phones/tablets and the readings in the same room at the same time are never the same. I don't mind the apps - they are as useful as a dyno - if you're testing for delta from thing1 to thing2. But not to try to generate some sort of absolute value.
    • I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.
×
×
  • Create New...