Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

All parts from my R32 GTR

1: As new D2 RS coilovers, used for 1 month only. These are damper and rebound adjustable. Spring rates are 9 and 7 kg/mm front and rear respectively. These were a special order with softer springs than usually fitted. Ride is firm and body roll is minimal. Comes in the box with all tools and the remainder of 12 month warranty. These fit R32 GTR and gts4 as well as 300zx (as written on the box)

2: Standard R32 GTR cross drilled front rotors 296mm. *EDIT* gone to a better place.

3: RB74 fornt pads that are only 2000 kms old. Heaps of life left in them. No track use. *SOLD*

4: New DBA4000 rear rotors 297mm. These are high performance slotted rotors. Still in plastic, never opened.

Location:

SE suburbs Melbourne.

Item Condition:

All items in excellent condition.

Reason for Selling:

No need for these parts anymore.

Price and Payment Conditions:

1: D2s cost around $1850, sell for $1450 as they are as new!!!

2: Standard R32 GTR cross drilled front rotors $0. *EDIT* gone

3: RB74 fornt pads cost $165, sell $100. *SOLD*

4: New DBA4000 rear rotors cost $475, sell for $430.

Extra Info:

Prices nego

Contact Details:

post, PM or email me at [email protected]

cheers

Chris

post-4091-1129359587.jpg

post-4091-1129359641.jpg

post-4091-1129359675.jpg

post-4091-1129359821.jpg

post-4091-1129359843.jpg

post-4091-1129360160.jpg

Edited by Nismo32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91221-r32-gtr-parts/
Share on other sites

Item:

2: Standard R32 GTR cross drilled front rotors 296mm. They have plenty of life left being 27mm thick. Have a smooth surface as they were recently machined (2000kms ago). They fit a varity of skylines incl R33 gtst etc.

Std R32 GTR rotors are NEW 32mm thick, and need replacing when at 30mm. Even R32 Gtst new are 30, and need replacing at 28mm...where are you getting your info from?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91221-r32-gtr-parts/#findComment-1643340
Share on other sites

Std R32 GTR rotors are NEW 32mm thick, and need replacing when at 30mm. Even R32 Gtst new are 30, and need replacing at 28mm...where are you getting your info from?

is that right? i better investigate this a little. i thought GTR rotors are 30mm std and need replacing at 24 or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91221-r32-gtr-parts/#findComment-1643593
Share on other sites

Bl4ck32 is Right.

Standard Thicknesses new are Front - 32mm, Rear - 18mm

Wear limit is Front - 30mm, Rear - 16mm

(Straight from the Manual)

27mm is hideously over warn!!

Cheers

Edited by RichyR32GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91221-r32-gtr-parts/#findComment-1643866
Share on other sites

Why are you selling these?

sadly its coz im abit of a softy, the ride is firm but not stupidly so. i went back to the standard suspension. and im spending the dough on replacing suspension bushes, disc rotors and rebuilding the calipers etc which is costing far more i had anticipated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91221-r32-gtr-parts/#findComment-1659432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...