Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well on a GTR you really need to put the sensor after the front pipes join so you get a reading (average) from all 6 cylinders instead of front or rear 3 only.

But for a GTST I can't see why not? Closer to the exhaust ports means a more accurate reading

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well on a GTR you really need to put the sensor after the front pipes join so you get a reading (average) from all 6 cylinders instead of front or rear 3 only.

But for a GTST I can't see why not?  Closer to the exhaust ports means a more accurate reading

Or you could by two kits from TE and get a reading of the front 3 and the back three, be good to compare anyway

The GTR thing makes sense, but 2 x WBO2 kits is getting a bit exorbinant, my only other issue would be with comparing the accuracy.

It says it's setup to emulate a Bosch LSM-11, what do Skylines run by default, and how close are they to this?

My guess would be there's not much difference, and that it shouldn't effect the car much, but if it did you'd notice the shit fuel economy pretty quick!

Looking thru the stats on these, they have an simulated Narrow band outpur (NBsim), is anyone using this?

i.e. Completely replacing the stock O2 sensor with the new WB one, then plumbing the NBsim output in to your ECU, or are you just mounting both?

The recently sold race car (not a Skyline) was done this way, it worked fine. The only problem is you have to leave the unit in the car all the time, if you take it out there is no lambda sensor input to the ECU ie; no closed loop running. I did that for a couple of days without thinking about it, driving around (rally rego) to signwriters etc and it sure guzzled the gas.

While I am tuning the Stagea (for a week or so, in all conditions) I wil run NBsim, remove the standard S&N lambda sensor and replace it with the F&W one. That way I won't have a cable running through the cabin and an expensive lambda sensor hanging out the rear. Asking to be hit or stolen.

: cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

Hi SK,

The dicksmiths whisper 2000 is no longer available. But it has been replaced with a better unit: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/Y1140

My question is how do you modify the microphone so that it somehow detects knock from an engine-mouted clip?

Can someone post up what pinging through one of these chassis ears sounds like?

LM1 vs techedge? WHich one SK do you prefer?

Thanks

Hi SK,

1. The dicksmiths whisper 2000 is no longer available. But it has been replaced with a better unit: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/Y1140

2. My question is how do you modify the microphone so that it somehow detects knock from an engine-mouted clip?

3. Can someone post up what pinging through one of these chassis ears sounds like?

4. LM1 vs techedge? WHich one SK do you prefer?

Thanks

Suggestions follow;

1. I haven't seen one of the new style, but I assume it can be modified to suite. All it really needs is a long piece of shielded cable so you can clamp the mike in the engine bay and have the amp and headphones in the cabin. If someone has the complete Autospeed article, maybe they can post it up.

2. The one I saw had no mike mods that I could see, you just clamped it in a convenient place, the standard knock sensor retaining bolts work for me.

3. Sorry, not me, I don't have a portable recorder these days

4. I have used the TechEdge yet, so I can't really say. I chose the Tech Edge this time (over another LM1) mostly for the 1MB logging capacity on board and the number of logging inputs. They are extra cost items on the LM1, plus I like making electronics kits.

:( cheers :)

I have been in contact with tech edge and will be organising a group buy for those interested.

Will get the ball rolling after i get back from Drift Nationals this weekend

any idea on price?

also anyone got a cheap source for a exhaust clamp/venturi pipe?

id be interested in one im pretty sure (well i want an afr meter, just not sure which yet)

edit: depends on price....the pre-assembled ones seem to approach the cost of a lm-1 unit after a quick check of the order page

Edited by NewKleer

We will await SK's completion and see how it stacks up against the LM-1.

Oh and the G/B will be something for the new year, im sure not everone has a spare $600 round christmas time.

sorry, left out the word "kit" - im not getting the assembled one.

btw i asked earlier about anyone knowing about price for venturi pipe/exhaust clamp - http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...p?partno=IM3728 has them for $132 (best ive found so far)

Edited by NewKleer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...