Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest a31rb25

just bought a steering bush and solid aliminium cradle bushes from Zenith Tuning (cheers Brad!) which will be installed in the next few days

was wondering if anybody would be interested in a brief do this/don't do this for future reference. pics will be included. will probably do it in a word-doco format as i don't know how to add mass pics to a post

any takers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/
Share on other sites

Guest a31rb25

Daveo, what's so bad about them, i understand that they induce oversteer, but is it that bad that it effects daily commuting? as for adding to the stiffness of the ride, i'm not too concerned with that, the car is already awful on anything that has a few bumps, lol

regardless of how they effect the car, i'll post here and on Cefiroz.com a report on them and an article about installing them. hopefully with pics too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1652609
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Yeah I got some alluminium inserts, what I am thinking about doing is keeping the bottom ones in and repacing the top part for some smaller cut pinapples. just finding with the LSD too much noise when it locks around slow tight corners such as three point turns. basically metal on metal no dampening. see how you go I am hoping to get mine in, in the next couple of months. Its been put off for a while and just got put off longer with a little acco today. (see pics and post)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1864680
Share on other sites

LoL one dont, dont use soild aluminium ones!  They are harsh, fun when you want it, but a pain the rest of the time.

Normal driving they are all good, yeh alloy ones make it harder than pinapples but lets face it the whole idea of them is to stop the harsher AXLE TRAMP and alow the wheels to spin with no issues.

GET EM INTO YA!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1869269
Share on other sites

Some people say the best of both worlds are PU on top and solid on the bottom.

Means it ends up tight but the NVH isn't transmitted to the car as much. I got my PU pineapples for $40 I think. Not that much in order to preserve some semblence of aural quality.

Good on ya for the article. If you want to just get the pics and send them to me seperately and just write the article in a PM or something I'll be happy to format it and put it up on cefiroz.. Good on ya!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1879611
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My understanding is that there are 4 types of subframe bushes.

The first type are the actual bushes in the subframe itself which are pressed in. See attachment below.

When these factory items get old the subframe has movement, then people fit the alloy type of spacer bush as is being discussed here, which is the second type of bush.

Then there are solid ally bushes which are installed to crush the std fatory bushes, seen here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...246&hl=subframe

Then there are the pinapple urethane type which are used to tilt the subframe for drift or traction seen as posted here : http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/203a_KCA349.pdf

I reckon im going to fit the first type i talked about (the actual bush replacement) which is a hard job, but will be worth it, and then fit the urethane type to angle the subframe for traction.

I just see the alloy type as a quick replacement for fitting the actual subframe mounts.

NSB_66_Nissan_Silvia___Skyline_Subframe_Mounts_1_.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91603-cradle-bushes/#findComment-1905359
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...