Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Graham West have been nothing but honest with me, I reckon they are very trustworthy - thats the main reason Im going there. They look you in the eye & tell it like it is.

Heres an example, was going to have highpressure fuel lines installed, they reckon after looking into it, that the current Jap spec stuff in the car is way better quailty that general aussie spec stuff. So they didnt do the job to save me money and make sure I wasnt going backwards with my car mods.

But Id suggest every mechanic has good / bad stories about them. I deal with Ashley & mainly Brett West, both are top blokes.

I still dont understand this high pressure fuel lines thing. :)

Fuel lines to me are metal lines with rubber lines/hose connecting up to the fuel pump, fuel filter and finally the fuel rail.

Its always worth changing fuel line hose after its 5 or more years old, especially if you plan on running close to the maximum rated pressure.

I'm unsure with the R33's but with the R32's Nissan use crimp type clamps on the fuel line hose. These hose clamps are total crap and would not trust them to hold the full 75psi pressure that EFI fuel line hose is rated at.

Check your fuel hose clamps and fuel line hose for *any* little cracks.

Head down to the local sprints, motor mates, supercrap, autobarn and ask for a few meters of EFI fuel line hose. It will be expensive per meter if not then chances are its std fuel line hose that is not rated for high pressure efi use.

To replace some of these little rubber hose pieces is a real pain in the arse, in the R32's you are required to remove the fuel rail and possibly the plenum, it takes ALOT of time. :)

Edited by Cubes

yeah i have heard the same from a few other people. but he has hot cars out the front all the time. probably fixing his own stuff ups. i had mine tuned at high-tech dyno on the corner of south & daws road, had no problems, speedy service and fixed price quotes. i recommend them, plus the place looks spotless and organized always a good sign!

anyone know a good place to pick up good turbos from (2nd hand). or anyone that reconditions them. silly question maybe but i am new to the scene. someone suggested replacing the creamic exhaust with a steel one so i can run more boost. ceramic wheels spool up quicker than steel ones right? port matching also gives better flow therefore more power? anyone with suggestions about a good turbo/tune shop, otherwise i will stick with hi-tech dyno. feedback?

Graham West are good, but very expensive. They squeezed 173RWKW out of my old CA18DET sil80 on a "safe" tune.

I have heard nothing but good things about boostworx, will be taking my new car there from now on.

Four Brothers - Stay as far away from that place as possible, far far away.

TURBO REBUILDS...

To ALL,

One of adelaides best turbo modifers/ rebuilders is Bill Keen of A.T.S. (adelaide turbo service) marion rd,marion.

Regards,

SKYLINE (kym)... B)

Edited by skyline
TURBO REBUILDS...

  To ALL,

            One of adelaides best turbo modifers/ rebuilders is Bill Keen of A.T.S. (adelaide turbo service) marion rd,marion.

  Regards,

            SKYLINE (kym)... B)

any relation to John Keen (formerly of Turbo Tune) ?

Morepower have done a lot of work on my car, and I've had no problems. I didnt mind Tillbrooks but the price was a lot higher.

What sort of prices are we talking for Morpower? Obviously depends what they are doing, but what have you had done there?

Cheers mate!

Look, at the end of the day everyone takes their cars to a place that they trust.

1 thing that cannot be guaranteed is the workmanship of anyone on your car. The only way you are going to get good service is by customer loyalty. Find someone who knows what they are doing, and stay with them.

Me- I know Shaun @ Boostworx does know his stuff, and does a good job. I go back when i need to.Why? Because i know he wont fix bogus problems, doesnt fark around, and he doesnt charge like a wounded bull.

Asking people what problems they have had is fine, but dont take someones opinion of a workshop the final say. Just because they have great service, doesnt mean you will get the same.

ps - ive lost a motor due to someone overtightening a tensioner bearing. I wouldnt take my Turbo to be Tuned there :(

I met Shaun through Tim and Ivan @ RPM.

Tim used to do all my work, Tim sold up Ivan took over with Shaun managing. Shaun's been around the scene for many years, he knows what he's doing and best of all..... He doesn't pop motors due to stating... 'ahh I'll pull another 20rwkw out of it', exactly how Tim used to work.

Tuning isn't rocket science, some simply try to push it too hard, running too close to the edge.

Edited by Cubes

I agree with Cubes, My car will be re tuned thru Shaun soon as well as anything else i need. The only other place i would recomend is Graham West, they have level heads on them, and always talk about SAFE tunes NOT MAX, but with a higher price tag than Boostworx....you do the math!

Also know of a old mates RX7 that blew up on the OLD RPM dyno back in the day, almost seems fitting that he(tim) is now at Tilbrooks......COUGH COUGH

Damn dude that was quite some time ago, all i know is they were doing work on it, then chucked it on the dyno and BANG!!!

Look i'm sure there was more to it but hey when a car is on the dyno you can see if things are wrong and shut it down, Like shaun had to on the SAU dyno day for me, was running well lean. Giddyup!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...