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Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire.

Cubes

By Cubes,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

I never measured it but you could use a fuse closer to the current draw of your pump. You got me interested so threw the clamp on to my car just then, 9.4A continuous didn't seem to change at all. Driving a bosch 044 intank. I dare say that a stock pump or gtr pump wouldn't use that much, throw a 15A fuse on there, the wiring will definitely handle greater than than the current required to pop a 15A fuse. Measure yours if you want, I don't have any others to compare against.

  • 2 months later...
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SimonR32
SimonR32

ok i did this today so this may help ppl install a bit easier (note this is for a r32 gts-t, not sure if wires are the same as other models) on a 30amp horn relay (all that is needed for a single pum

Cubes
Cubes

I recently checked the voltage my fuel pumps were receiving. Voltages were consistently around 11.2v's. I zipped down to Jaycar and picked up.... 8GA OFC Red Power Cable x 6m 8GA OFC Black Power C

Sydneykid
Sydneykid

Hi Cubes, glad to see you finally did the wiring upgrade, it's a very worthwhile investment in time and not a lot of money. You are suffering from "excessive size pump syndrome", because the 044 flow

Posted Images

  • 2 months later...
Luke_GTS-T Experienced

Luke_GTS-T

Posted
Posted
040 in ur 33 will b no problem

mines been in my car for 8-10 months now and never had any problems...

Yer, so will rewiring the fuel pump be necessary as it is in an r32? Will the same process be used to do so? I went out and bought all the wiring already...

  • 1 month later...
stefan-w Apprentice

stefan-w

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I did this last friday, actually in the exact same way like gumflappers' wiring diagram.

I'm currently running a stock pump, but it feels like it's running smoother through gears, turbo seems to spool a bit better... so my 'gut dyno' says it was worth effort.

But now my fuel warning light stays on all the time... haven't tried to reset the ECU, but I don't think that'll solve the problem.

Anyone who has come across this problem?

Taking the bulb out is no solution haha :P

stefan-w Apprentice

stefan-w

Posted
Posted (edited)

If somebody could help me out on this one, please do :)

I opened up the fuel pump wiring assembly or whatever you'd like to call it, looked at the pins, but it looks fine, and should make contact (just like it did before I started out modding it)... the pins are locked firmly in the plug, as they were before I even touched them.

This is how I did the wiring;

12v%20wiring%20pump.jpg

(I took the relay from the diagram by 'gumflapper').

I first depinned both ground and '12v' feed wire from the plug, then cut off the stock wires from the pins, and soldered the new thicker wire to the pins... the two pins fit well inside the plug and are not loose or something like that.

To get rid of the fuel-light coming on in my gauge cluster, I also tried to get the ground for the pump from the original loom, so the diagram looks a bit like this;

12v%20wiring%20pump%20stock%20ground.jpg

It still had that friggin' light in the gauge cluster :/

I then put it back to the first situation, and took the ground wire from the battery of for about 10-15 minutes, pushed the brake pedal a couple of times, doors open with dome light 'on', etc.

Still has the light coming on :)

What seems weird to me, is that when I meassured the voltage at the three-pin plug, I read a higher voltage when using the ground from the stock pump loom, than when I used a ground from a bolt in the chassis.

What am I doing wrong in all this?

Also, anybody who knows what the two-pin plug is for?

I don't read any voltage from both, with ignition switched on and off, and using the chassis as well as the stock loom for ground.

There's nothing about this in the service manual (that, or I just didn't find it).

Edited by stefan-w
gumflapper Grand Master

gumflapper

Posted
Posted

hey

your much better off grounding the pump either to the battery directly or close to it. gounding it thru the wiring lume will reduce the voltage that the pump recieves therefore defeating the purpose of this mod.

post-44390-1254914219_thumb.jpg

in the photo above, you can see the 6mm brown and blue wires that feed the fuel pump. i would be checking the other smaller wires in the tank. i assume (never checked them myself) that they are from the low-level sensor. make sure all of ur wiring is correct and secured/soldered properly and check that all the plugs/sockets are locked together firmly.

however upon looking at that image there seems to be a few more wires in the tank (bottom rhc)... any ideas on what they could be?

stefan-w Apprentice

stefan-w

Posted
Posted

I've got ground directly from the battery, just like the 12v feed... it's exactly as in the diagram you made :banana:

Only I used black and red wiring haha, the loom only powers the relay.

That second diagram I've posted was a try, to see if that would solve the problem (wich it didn't, so I went back to your wiring diagram).

Only now do I see you've pulled but wires to the pump, not just to the plug on top of the tank (wich I did)... this shouldn't make a difference I hope?

I'll do so when upgrading the pump, but not on the stock one.

Is that unprotected wiring and an open plug floating around in your fuel tank? :dry:

Are you sure that's entirely save?

gumflapper Grand Master

gumflapper

Posted
Posted

i thought the same thing when i took out the stock pump (WTF r all those wires floating around in my fuel? :S) i decided not 2 fix what didnt seem broken... lol

"Only now do I see you've pulled but wires to the pump" i dont understand :S

stefan-w Apprentice

stefan-w

Posted
Posted

Crap... 'typo', and I should have written it a bit more clear :rant:

What I meant; I only replaced the wiring up to the female connector (wich goes on top of the fuel tank).

I noticed just then that you have also replaced the thin stock wiring from the male connector to the pump itself, inside the fuel tank... obviously, I did not.

I don't think that'll cause my light to come on though, but I'm no expert.

gumflapper Grand Master

gumflapper

Posted
Posted

replacing the wiring to the fuel pump inside of the tank itself will have nothing to do with the low-level sensor... 2 b honest i could not tell you what the sensor even looks like as ive never pulled it out. i had enuf trouble getting the fuel pump in and out let alone the low-level sensor.

  • 3 months later...
Takoon Rookie

Takoon

Posted
Posted
pidibump!!

I read the whole 12 page thread. Most people talk about r33 or 32 gts or 32 with Aftermarket pump.

What about Stock fuel pump on a GTR 32 with something like 350whp.

Any benefit?

Maybe, that this help you out:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

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