Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire.

[gumflapper]

the connector you see in the image is the 1 that goes directly into the fuel tank itself (which i know you already know)... when u say "go around the connector. it has a rubber boot seal" do you mean the 1 into the top of the tank itself? where the stock wiring harness goes into? its a white/cream colour seal with the 3 hoses on it.

heller: "use the existing wiring passthrough into the tank. a little bit of thinner wire won't drop bugger all volts."

i agree with this. i am an electrician and i do know about voltage drop/resistance (ohms law) and i dont think that 30-40mm of wire is going to restrict the flow of current/voltage in a sufficient amount to notice any difference behind the wheel. any multimeter would pick up the difference (didnt have it with me at the time of install) but the difference would be (in my opinion) small enough not to worry about.

daisu: "I don't see why he needs to solder the crimp connections, as long as he used quality connectors and a proper tool to crimp them"

i do have the proper crimping tool and connectors for this and i do not think that soldering the join would make much difference (if any). having said that, if someone can prove me wrong or has a valid opinion on this by all means let me know. the last thing i need is my fuel pump to fu(k up on me whilst im driving somewhere.

the reason i used 6mm2 wire for the pump is because the yellow crimps you can see in the fotos are designed exactly for that size wire and the crimpers that i have, have three crimp slots for them (1.5/2.5/6.0). and being an electrician i have access to km's of wire at work.

"my work must outlive the component im workng on" - thats good advice

[heller44]

Don't solder anything that is subject to vibration. Use the correct crimp lugs with the correct crimping tool. Soldered wires subject to vibration will form a stress joint where the solder flow stops and will be the first place to break. (Lots of experience in this area, rail electronics repair and mining crap, please consider)

[gumflapper]

i never knew that soldering was subject to vibration...

good to know

[mtopxsecret6]

ditto here too. I cant say i'm an electrician by profession. Though i don't understand how the soldering would create this problem?

[gumflapper]

the only thing that i could think of is after soldering the wire your left with a very hard & strong electrical connection. where the solder ends your left with flexible cable. i guess this part of the circuit could be weak against vibrations and movement?

[heller44]

got it in one. there is no stress relief where the solder that has bled in ends. if there is any flex in the wire it will work on this point..

[gumflapper]

but if you were to do what ive done, solder 2 ends of wire inline properly, heat shrink both wires and heat shrink them both again 2gether, do u think that the strength of the heat shrink will provide some resistance to the bending/flexing of the wiring. in my opinion i think it will.

i understand what ur saying and perhaps in a different situation of doing a connection like this, i would do it differently, but for where this has been done (in my case anyway) i think that the soldering job, combined with the amount of heatshrink used, the connection will be eletrically sound and mechanically strong enough to last many, many years...

[heller44]

that should be alright. stress relief remains intact past the solder. I'm talking more about soldering connectors, or soldering directly to equipment.

[gumflapper]

had a bit of free time later last nite so i put this image together

this is the main reason i dont think that soldering the wire to the lug is absolutely necessary...

[mtopxsecret6]

well i have loaded a picture of the re routing past the plug that i mentioned earlier. I have un-pluged the plug for a better picture of what im describing. This is a 32.. so im not sure about the 33. Anyway.. this gives you an idea of what i'm blabbing on about.

[gumflapper]

yeh i c what u mean... i guess when im trying 2 explain what ive done is 2 my 33 n what uve done is to ur 32... that rubber grommet in the 1st and 3rd pic u have there is similar to the 33. ive done what uve done there but under that cap there is a screw-on white/cream cloloured plastic piece which all of the hoses and electrical plugs connect to. what i was referring to there was using the original plugs/sockets on that plastic piece because that is 1 sealed unit.

if any1 knows what im talking about and has a pic plz post it up

thanks

[mtopxsecret6]

ok.. i understand what yor saying. the 32 is similar.. when i get back towhere the car is.. i will post a picture of how i got around it.

[gumflapper]

that'd b good...

thanks

[iansr33]

would this mod be ok on a near standard car?

[gumflapper]

it wouldnt really be necessary... but if your planning on getting some more power out of ur car say towards 260-280rwkw's then this mod wouldnt hurt to have...

the main reason i did this is because i would like in the near future i would like 260-280rwkw's but to get that you need turbo, injectors, fmic, tune n all that shit and all of this requires a bit more fuel + any excess fuel ur engine doesnt use just gets returned to the fuel tank anyways

[iansr33]

mmmmmmmm i think i may do this anyways then. im only looking for 330bhp max as my car is auto

[Harry-Hotpants]

mmmmmmmm i think i may do this anyways then. im only looking for 330bhp max as my car is auto

ur car recieves a (-) signal from ur ecu which is the varying voltage to ur fuel pump. all u need to do is find out which wire is the voltage recieved from the ecu and chop it then connect it to sumwhere in ur boot(an earth) anywhere metal. now ur gettin a constant 12v to ur fuel pump. simple and easy

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

im looking at this mod before getting my 32R tuned, it will be running tomei in-tank pump so not entirely sure if mod is required.. still thinking of earthing pump to chasis at the very least.. currently stock pump is running on full/high voltage as i had earthed the faulty fpcm

i have 0 gauge running into boot with distributor block from which im thinking of running power to pump

[iansr33]

ur car recieves a (-) signal from ur ecu which is the varying voltage to ur fuel pump. all u need to do is find out which wire is the voltage recieved from the ecu and chop it then connect it to sumwhere in ur boot(an earth) anywhere metal. now ur gettin a constant 12v to ur fuel pump. simple and easy

can i just not find the wire at the ecu end and earth it there. but which end do i earth? the one coming out of the ecu or the other end? or can i just not run the earth from the fuel pump straight to the battery?

[Zurlox]

hi there, i have been reading through this thread for awhile now, and successfully moded it yesterday after much pain.

the way i did it in my 32 was went down to jaycar and bought 6m of 8gauge red and black, a 15A fused relay, yellow eyelet lugs and spades, red and blue spades to fit the relay,

i ran the red 8GA wire from the battery positive to the relay positive in, the fused side of the relay, and the positive out from the relay went to the positive of the pump after the stock plug, now in the 32 the positive to the pump is the white/purple stripe wire, and the negative is the blue/red stripe wire,

so naturally you will run some 8GA wire from the pump side blue/red stripe wire to a suitable earth point, the same earth point i used for the relay, then the trigger wire for the relay to switch over when i turn the ignition on, i used the stock 12v wire that used to feed the pump.

a word of warning, dont leave the blue/red stripe wires connected and dont leave the white/purple stripe wires connected.

i hope this makes sense, it did take me 8 hours to complete including changing fuel pump and new fuel hoses.

attatched are some pictures that should help describe my instructions

one thing that does confuse me about this tutorial is that (taking it from the first post) the use of a 60A relay and a 30 amp fuse but then its all spliced into the last little bit of stock loom, which is much lower current rating than 30A as well as the wires actually feeding the pump in the tank, so that is then acting as the fuse, and your 30A fuses are essentially useless because the wires will burn out well before the fuse does