Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire.

Cubes

By Cubes,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 302
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SimonR32
SimonR32

ok i did this today so this may help ppl install a bit easier (note this is for a r32 gts-t, not sure if wires are the same as other models) on a 30amp horn relay (all that is needed for a single pum

Cubes
Cubes

I recently checked the voltage my fuel pumps were receiving. Voltages were consistently around 11.2v's. I zipped down to Jaycar and picked up.... 8GA OFC Red Power Cable x 6m 8GA OFC Black Power C

Sydneykid
Sydneykid

Hi Cubes, glad to see you finally did the wiring upgrade, it's a very worthwhile investment in time and not a lot of money. You are suffering from "excessive size pump syndrome", because the 044 flow

Posted Images

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

I didnt go quite to the extreme as the OP.

Mine just stopped working one day. No idea why. Pump relay and pump were both getting voltage, but nothing was working.

All i did was disconnect the stock 12v feed to te relay, then take the 12v feed from the 4ws Motor and connected that up instead seeing as the 4ws isnt used. . Tadaaa. Perfect running now. Uses the stock relay and earths. One wire to change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
OMY31T Rising Star

OMY31T

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys, im doing this mod atm, and ive been wondering wether this would work or not.

im running a dual stage boost controller off a switch in my dash. im wondering if i run the battery 12v feed to my relay, and then run a positive feed from my dual stage switch to make the relay switch on and off, and then tap the battery 12v feed from the relay into the std pump positive feed would this cause any issues?

doing it that way, i can still run the reduced voltage when im just cruising around the streets on low boost, and if i want to give it a boot full and switch over to high boost(low boost is only 10 psi so the pump will suffice without the extra volts) it will pump the extra voltage from the direct feed into my fuel pump to get the max out of it. this in theory should work, but what im worried about is the extra voltage running back up the line on the stock wiring to the stock relay and causing a problem. it would have been good to beable to shut off the stock pump wiring altogether, but the issue there is when the lines switch there will be a momontary lapse in power to the pump.

is it worth a try or should i just run it at max all the time?

Edited by OMY31T
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Did this mod yesturday, Have some photos and a diagram if anyones confused to show how I did mine, seems to have improved the car a bit

R33FuelPumpRe-wire.jpg

Relay mounted:

20120829_155332.jpg

Wires spliced into pump wiring:

20120829_155324.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
gumflapper Grand Master

gumflapper

Posted
Posted

hey guys, im doing this mod atm, and ive been wondering wether this would work or not.

im running a dual stage boost controller off a switch in my dash. im wondering if i run the battery 12v feed to my relay, and then run a positive feed from my dual stage switch to make the relay switch on and off, and then tap the battery 12v feed from the relay into the std pump positive feed would this cause any issues?

doing it that way, i can still run the reduced voltage when im just cruising around the streets on low boost, and if i want to give it a boot full and switch over to high boost(low boost is only 10 psi so the pump will suffice without the extra volts) it will pump the extra voltage from the direct feed into my fuel pump to get the max out of it. this in theory should work, but what im worried about is the extra voltage running back up the line on the stock wiring to the stock relay and causing a problem. it would have been good to beable to shut off the stock pump wiring altogether, but the issue there is when the lines switch there will be a momontary lapse in power to the pump.

is it worth a try or should i just run it at max all the time?

i guess u could try that if u really wanted to but whatever fuel the engine does not consume gets fed back into the tank anyways... id rather have more fuel then not enough when i "need" it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

Did this mod yesturday, Have some photos and a diagram if anyones confused to show how I did mine, seems to have improved the car a bit

R33FuelPumpRe-wire.jpg

Relay mounted:

Wires spliced into pump wiring:

So you don't need to take the pump back out and replace that wiring also? I really don't want to do that if i don't need to

Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

So you don't need to take the pump back out and replace that wiring also? I really don't want to do that if i don't need to

It would be better to re-do all the wiring, but I didnt want to pull the pump out and play around with the plug in the fuel tank cap etc so I just did it like this

The pump sounds louder so must be getting some extra voltage, no problems so far

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted

It would be better to re-do all the wiring, but I didnt want to pull the pump out and play around with the plug in the fuel tank cap etc so I just did it like this

The pump sounds louder so must be getting some extra voltage, no problems so far

Cheers mate will do your way and if i have issues rewire as necessary. Not pushing the pump that hard (similar power to what you have

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jimBNR32 Rookie

jimBNR32

Posted
Posted

hi newbie here from UK

r32 gtr owner.

could someone tell me what do you do with the old fuel pump plug??

i realise i can either cut for 12v before the plug, or fit a male spade fitting inside the plug on the 12v side to trigger the relay.

what do you do with the plugs negative feed?? simply cover it up with tape?? or does this still need to go to ground also?? (so in total, 3 wires to ground, plug/relay/pump)

thanks

ps, anyone confirm the wire colours for the + and - on the plug on a r32 gtr

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
kosmo90 Enthusiast

kosmo90

Posted
Posted

It would be better to re-do all the wiring, but I didnt want to pull the pump out and play around with the plug in the fuel tank cap etc so I just did it like this

The pump sounds louder so must be getting some extra voltage, no problems so far

Did you use the negative (gray) from the wiring loom as well or just the 12v blue?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

Also my battery in the boot on the drivers side so all my new fuel pump cables are short in length, I'm running a walbro e85 400lph pump

What would be the best size cable to support this pump? 8gauge would be hugely overkill for such short distances?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted

i used 8g as i had few meters of spare cable, also make sure +ve and -ve are the same gauge, my one just plugs into the existing pin, wires inside the tank hasn't been touched

Also my battery in the boot on the drivers side so all my new fuel pump cables are short in length, I'm running a walbro e85 400lph pump
What would be the best size cable to support this pump? 8gauge would be hugely overkill for such short distances?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR front knuckles not lining up

      By Duncan · Posted

      Does the old one line up OK if you try to put it back in? In the 32 (different geometry) it is hard to reinsert the ball joint with the sway bar and spring attached. But ultimately.....this wouldn't be the first aftermarket part that is not right....
    • PLYNX
      Skyline Paparazzi

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Yep and yep ! Every time I now take out the R33 I get a lot of thumbs up as well, and my car was also a daily until last year. Still get people coming up and asking about it. A while ago the most memorable being a V8 commodore driver who approached me in the bunnings carpark and asked me why the were so fast and what kind of V8 it had in it. Couldn't resist and told him they were only a straight six the same capacity as the 161 red motor. The look on his face was legendry. However the shine has gone off cause as well as the appreciation there is now a lot of harassment from other drivers in there VW/Nline/Ae86 with body kits or whatever the hell they are, while all I want to do is cruise.( well sort of drive with spirt ) I always try and get the hell away from them by driving slow, putting on my lawn bowling hat and leaning over the steering wheel to look as old fart as possible.
    • Duncan
      Nav Blank Screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      There really isn't enough to help remotely....the nav screen likely takes it's visual feed from another unit that is not plugged in properly now (that is how the cima worked at least). Sounds like at least the reverse cam works. It is a possibility the screen is dead of course, minor knock while it was apart. I had to replace the Cima screen because it would not display anything in the morning when below 0.  
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Orza81
      1993 TH1 Blue R32 Skyline GTR VSpec

      By Orza81 · Posted

      Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
×
×
  • Create New...