Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

As I've mentioned in previous threads, here is a "STICKIED" link to all your Stagea buying tips on what to look for, and most of the stuff you will find useful in making your choices!

Anyone can add to the thread, and I will make an effort to regularly add all of the most important stuff to this first post so potential buyers don't have to read the whole lot to get the information they need. Oh, and if I get something wrong, please let me know...

So, here goes:

BODYWORK AND CHASSIS

Check for:

* Rust and/or paint bubbling and peeling under the door wing mirrors;

* Rust around the strut towers, where the strut tower brace is bolted down;

* Rust and/or paint bubbling and peeling in and around the sunroof runners (if fitted with a sunroof);

* Condition of door seals and rust where the seals attach to the body;

* Rust on the door and boot hinges;

* Rust in the spare wheel cavity...

Body Dimensions:

* Exterior Dimensions (LxWxH), mm: 4800 x 1755 x 1495

* Wheel base, mm: 2720

* Track (F/R), mm: 1460 / 1515

* Ground clearance, mm: 145

* Curb vehicle weight, kg: 1620-1660

* Seating capacity, persons: 5

* Doors number: 5

* Min.turning radius, m: 5.3

* Fuel tank capacity, l: 68

ENGINE & DRIVELINE

Check for:

* Is the colour of the oil a really dark brown? (Worse still, if it's whitish, see the next point) If the oil is dark brown and really thick instead of smooth and runny, then it may indicate that it hasn't been changed in a while, or that there is excessive engine wear.

* Water in the oil (is the oil under the cap milky and white, instead of a darkish brown? This could indicate a blown head gasket, or worse);

* Bubbles in the radiator fluid (obviously, check this when the engine is still cold, usually just after you've started it);

* Is the idle smooth? This could be a minor issue with some loose/damaged vacuum hoses, but it also could be a lot worse...

Engine Specs - Series I (1996 - July 1998). This is for the 25t RS-Four, as the most commonly seen version here in Australia:

* RB25DET engine, 2.5 litres, DOHC, 24-valve, turbocharged, same basic specs as a series II R-33 Skyline GTS25t;

* 173kW @ 6400rpm, 275Nm @ 4800rpm - figures quoted are at the flywheel;

* E-AT Electronically-controlled four-speed automatic with overdrive and electronic lock-up torque converter;

* ATESSA-ETS electronically-controlled four wheel drive... There was no manual option in the Series I.

Engine Specs - Series II (August 1998 - 2001). Once again, this is for the 25t RS-Four.

* RB25DET Neo engine, 2.5 litres, DOHC, 24-valve, turbocharged, same basic specs as an R-34 Skyline GTt;

* 206kW @ 6400rpm, 333Nm @ 3200rpm (or 343Nm @ 3200rpm in RS-Four S manual) - figures quoted are at the flywheel;

* E-ATx Electronically-controlled four-speed automatic with overdrive and electronic lock-up torque converter; or

* M-ATx E-AT Electronically-controlled four-speed automatic with overdrive and electronic lock-up torque converter and Tiptronic function; or

* 5-speed manual

FACTORY FEATURES AND OPTIONS

All Stageas have:

* Power windows;

* Power mirrors (including a fold-in feature for parking in tight spaces);

* Driver's and Passenger's SRS airbags;

* Roof rails;

* Reclinable and fold-down (by use of a nifty handle in the luggage bay) rear seats, with a centre fold-down arm rest;

* Climate control air-conditioning;

* Electronic odometer and dual trip-meters;

* Various hooks and tie-down points in the luggage bay so your cargo doesn't go flying around;

* Tilt-adjustable steering column;

* 12v lighter socket in the rear luggage area;

* Leather steering wheel;

* Front fog lamps;

* Front, variable intermittent windscreen wipers;

* Rear window wiper;

* Front spoiler;

* UV-cutting glass (front doors and windscreen) - all models;

* Dual cup-holders in the dashboard;

* Keyless entry;

Commonly fitted Optional Extras include:

* Front centre arm rest, some of which can be opened towards either the driver or passenger;

* Luggage bay roll-out cover;

* Luggage bay safety net;

* Privacy glass (rear doors and rear luggage area) - RS models and above;

* Dual sunrooves (front one is tilt and slide, rear is a slide-only);

* Electric, self-closing rear door (boot)...

Other, less common Stagea Optional Extras include:

* Leather seats and interior trims;

* Electric seats (only available with the leather option)...

* Extra 12v bayonet-style sockets on the left side of the luggage area, the inside of the luggage area door and the D-pillar for bayonet-fit accessories such as a torch, etc.;

* Limited Slip Differential (manual RS Four S models)

CHASSIS CODES

Model:......................Driveline:...............Engine:..............Chassi

Code:

RS Four S..................AWD manual..........RB25DET Neo......WGNC34

RS Four V..................AWD......................RB25DET............WGNC34

RS Four.....................AWD......................RB25DET............WGNC34

RS............................RWD......................RB25DET............WGC34

25X Four...................AWD.......................RB25DE.............WGNC34

25G Four...................AWD.......................RB25DE.............WGNC34

25X..........................RWD.......................RB25DE.............WGC34

25G..........................RWD.......................RB25DE.............WGC34

20G..........................RWD.......................RB20DE.............WHC34

So, basically, when it comes to model spec, "RS" is anything turbo, "RS Four" is turbo AWD, "Four" is any AWD, and "RS Four S" is turbo AWD with manual (series 2 only, and there were NO turbo RWDs).

As far as chassis codes, series 1 all had an "E-" prefix (such as E-WHC34), and series 2 all had the "GF-" prefix (such as GF-WGNC34).

WHC = RB20DE power (the lowest model and in one spec level and RWD only)

WGC = RB25DE or RB25DET power, and RWD only

WGNC = RB25DE or RB25DET power, AWD.

So, H = RB20 power, G = RB25 power, and GN = RB25 + AWD.

All this info was found RIGHT HERE, and I will update the first post when I have time with more specific details regarding release dates, spec levels, and options.

COLOUR AND TRIM

Exterior Colours:

* Bayside Blue (TV-2)

* Sonic Silver (KR-4)

* Black Pearl (GV-1)

* Lightning Yellow (EV-1)

* Sherwood Green Pearl (DR-2)

* Active Red (AR-2)

* White Pearl (QT-1)

Edited by GoldZilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92065-buyers-guide-the-nissan-c34-stagea/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, i have a feeling mine is pretty base line

No electric boot

No interior options (though, i find the std stereo speakers really good compared to other cars ive listened in...could have been changed, havnt looked)

No body kit at all (at least i got the lower front lip)

I know the Series 1 RS Four comes with 15" Wheels and the RS Four-V comes with 16" wheels.

Also, the RS Four-V comes with the double din CD/Cassette player, while the RS Four only has the Cassette/Radio

These are the 2 main ways to tell the RS Four and the RS Four-V apart

I have factory tweaters in the A-columns, which isn't a standard feature

I've also just been made aware Series 2 RS Four come standard with Xenon headlights. Does someone with an S2 want to confirm this?

Great info ppl's! Never knew I had a RS Four-V...... got all the standard features and all the Optional Extras.

Plus I got the rust by the mirrors on both front doors, but none elsewhere from what I can tell.

Edited by bwilkeson

Some Stagea Reviews from magazines contained in this link.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91842

I got the electric self closing boot option, and roll cover. But no net. Actually thinking of getting a cage like u can get for commo's and fords due to safety reasons.

Also got the rust under the mirrors ... well for another 2days then it'll be gone!! :)

Cages are dangerous, ie if you or a child is in the boot and the door closes...... a child could die, due to the heat buildup in our Aussie summer.

Make sure you get an 'approved' safety cage if thats the way you want to go.

I think forum member GTR Familia was selling cargo barriers at one stage?

Edited by bwilkeson

Yeah i bought a set of cover and netting off him. works wel, you can mount them a few different ways depending on what you're putting in the back

you can set it up a way so you can have a bit of a parcel shelf for kids to put books/pillows or whatever on. pretty useful and multi purpose

I've also just been made aware Series 2 RS Four come standard with Xenon headlights. Does someone with an S2 want to confirm this?

Confirm that Series 2 comes with Xenon headlights, well at least mine has and most others I have seen appear to have Xenons as well. Also got the auto boot closure thing too.

Yes, i have a feeling mine is pretty base line

No electric boot

No interior options (though, i find the std stereo speakers really good compared to other cars ive listened in...could have been changed, havnt looked)

No body kit at all (at least i got the lower front lip)

Dude, my body kit is the same - I've only got the front lip, but I LOVE the way it looks anyway. I've got no rear spoiler either.

I know the Series 1 RS Four comes with 15" Wheels and the RS Four-V comes with 16" wheels.

Also, the RS Four-V comes with the double din CD/Cassette player, while the RS Four only has the Cassette/Radio

These are the 2 main ways to tell the RS Four and the RS Four-V apart

I have factory tweaters in the A-columns, which isn't a standard feature

I've also just been made aware Series 2 RS Four come standard with Xenon headlights. Does someone with an S2 want to confirm this?

Cool, thanks for that Terminal.

So I'm guessing RS-Four has ATESSA AWD, but is a very basic spec level? Are the 15's alloys as well, or steelies with wheel covers?

Mine looks to be an RS Four V (with the 5spd conversion, of course!). I have the 16's, the electric boot-locking, a double-DIN cd/cassette/radio, and factory tweeters in the A-pillar. But I've already blown my speakers because it just doesn't play loud enough!!!

Thanks for the info guys, and keep it coming! :D

I will be adding and/or modifying the list over the next few days...

Cheers,

Nick T.

All RS Fours have the same ATESSA, but it's not up to the spec of the GTR's. smaller axels and diffs i think.

But remembering hte Pulsar GTiR has ATESSA too, it's just a different driveline, so i think the ATESSA system is the same, it's just the driveline that makes the difference

Goldzilla, great thread.... as for speakers; ditch 'em. The Clarion stock speakers are 15w and pretty 'bad'. With me stereo install Ive put in 4 door speakers, amp & sub, and disconnected the A-pillar tweaters. MUCH better.... :D

Brendan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...