Jump to content
SAU Community

Nics & Eccs Whats The Difference?

rbz31

By rbz31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rbz31 Apprentice

rbz31

Posted
Posted

G'daY guys,

well i was just wondering whether anyone would be able to outline the key differences between the NICS system on the 86' to i think 88' RB20DET's and the ECCS system that started in 89'. I've heard about the differences in the size of the turbo (NICS has an extremely small turbo) and i was wondering what other differences there are?

Is it just a matter of the different ECU's being used?

Are the internals the same?

The stroke, crank and bore dimensions??

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have tried to search this question but there seems to be nothing in any otha the threads..

cheers

JT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92343-nics-eccs-whats-the-difference/
Share on other sites
rbz31 Apprentice

rbz31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey...

fanx heaps for dat bro.... but what are you sure dats it??

cause i was havin a chat to sum guy from SSS and he was tryin to tell me dat da NICS has totally different internals and stuff.... i'm not sure whether or not he was jus tryin to get me to try n buy a silver top but he sure sounded like he knew what he was talkin bout....

anyone else have a clue....

R31Heaven Proficient

R31Heaven

Posted
Posted

Arh Ok your talkin about the silver top ECCS not the redtop ECCS thats a different kettle of fish. I cant comment on the Silvertop. I do know they had a way better inlet plenum and may have differnet cams etc, so he may be right if they are talkin about the Silvertop. there is about a 20fwkw difference over a stock standard NICS. But as said above I got 134rwkw out my nics with just a R32 turbs and a good tune with a SAFC, so you can get some good power out of one. Their downfall is the pissy little turbo they run stock

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Very small turbo and 12 runner inlet manifold - 2 feeding each pot and one with a throttle plate in it so that one could be closed at low engine speeds . At the time Nissan was trying to get some low speed torque out of a six with small 330 odd cc cylinders and low tech (ceramic turbine bush bearing) turbos .

The R32 RB20DET is the pick as they're not that expensive and all the goodies come std . You may also be able to put the late head/manifolds/turbo on an R31 donk if you don't want to change the lot .

What worked in the end was ball bearing Hitachi turbos with better response / better porting and inlet manifold design / more modern electronics ie ECU sensors and AFM . The later turbo for the early engine would be the best and easiest mod .

rbz31 Apprentice

rbz31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i'm asking all this because i was kind of forced to buy a NICS....

U see i have a 300zx and i wanted to get an RB into it.... searched for a frontcut for ages and i finally found a 200zr series 1 frontcut and bought it... I was jus wondering if now that i have the mounts the r32 rb20 should jus drop straight in and whether the gearbox that comes with this early model RB20DET is any good??

Anyone have a clue about this???

Fanx heaps guys u been heaps of help...

Jago Mentor

Jago

Posted
Posted

NICS also has butterfly plates between the intake manifold and the head, or somewhere in that region, supposedly they can cause problems with getting jammed etc.

Standard ecu also craps itself after 11psi and starts running all funny and keeps cutting out too. Pretty much gets stuck in "high rpm mode" or something, i can't remember all the nitty gritties but it has something to do with valve operation etc. I got rid of my nics quick smart, so quick that it was gone before i even first drove the car...

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Hey R31 Heaven.... How much boost were u running for 135rwkw??

R31 Nismoid how different are the heads and how hard are they to change??

cheers guys.. :(

as in they are not interchangeable easily, if at all.

Well... they "might" be able to but that means adapting the silver-top ECU to the red-top loom etc etc.

Its a mission

degeko Explorer

degeko

Posted
Posted

the r31 came out with 3 different rb20's the 2 redtops (nics and eccs) both 12 port head, and also came out with a silvertop in mid 89 only 400 odd made and were the experimental motor to be used in the r32 but still used the redtop ecu and wiring/CAS but had the 6 port head and the same 'o' injectors used in the newer silvertops, the nics had problems with the actuator that controls the butterflies in the runners, the bottom ends in all rb20's are the same just the heads are different, the redtop had more aggresive cams than the silvertop and are interchangeable

rbz31 Apprentice

rbz31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mate...

R u sayin dat if the bottom end of all RB20's is the same then it would be easy to change the heads on these blocks from the NICS to the ECCS and the only problem would be the loom???

Am i right??

Also is a r32 Turbo a direct bolt on for the NICS engine?? It should be just makin sure... Does it use the same manifold 2??

Anyone noe of some1 sellin a good R32 turbo cheap??

Fanx heaps guys.... Will post as ma 300zx enters the RB world...

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...