Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turbos:

Greddy T88H-38GK- relisting as buyer has yet to get in contact with me. Now has both 18cm and 22cm exhaust housings - $3200 firm + $500 for spare housing. Tran if you are reading this get in contact with me, I have been ringing your phone but no answer and not terribly impressed.

Garrett XR6 turbo - GT35/40R, internal wastegate 1.06 A/R rear. $1650.

HKS 2530 T25 flange - suitable for SR20 bolt on, has done ~1,000k's since new. $1500.

GTR stock turbo - one good one, another one with no exhaust wheel. $150 for both.

BOVs:

Greddy type S - have got one purple and one black. $150.

R34 GT-R stockers - comes with the alloy mount. $150.

Misc:

Moroso Accusump oil sump - new in box, ideal for wet sump arrangement and will prevent oil surge/low pressure issues. $250

HKS ETC + EDA - to suit R33, used for a few weeks. $800.

Thermo fans + shroud - EA falcon complete unit, brand new in box. Highest flowing thermos on the market. $220

JUN crank collar - $220

720cc injectors - used, set of 6 to suit GTR. $650

ECR33 driveshafts - snapped one recently? $80 each

Engine damper - bolts to strut top and top of engine, helps stop vibrations and breaking engine mounts. New in box. $250

Nismo white faced full dash - R33. 11K tacho, 320km/h speedo. Speedo was acting up when in car last, has 4,500 k's on the clock. $550.

Trust twin inlet intercooler - brand new in box, 600x290x80mm. $900.

HKS 100mm intercooler - single inlet/outlet, older style tube + fin. Some fins bent, no leaks. 600x290x100mm $800.

Air con panel relocator. For R33, mounts the A/C panel in the dash and has a replacement panel for gauges, boost controller etc. $200.

DBA rotors - new rear rotors for ECR33, one piece/slotted. $350

HKS low mount manifolds - stock replacement stainless steel manifolds with cross-over pipe. Used. $1100

C's quick shift - brand new in box. $370

More parts + pics to follow.

Blitz SBC-ID3 boost controller + Power Meter ID3 - used for a couple of weeks, didn't even install the Power Meter. Has the optional data input cable to read/log 3 additional inputs (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, even knock). $700

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...