Jump to content
SAU Community

13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).


Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

95Sky - the after market BOV will add zero performance to your car.

But if it vents to air it'll help you get a defect notice :P

Stick with the stock one, if you really get keen you can try the BOV mod that is posted on these forums - do a search and you'll find it.

J

G'day guys,

Just wondering what the max output (kW) I can get out of my R33 GTST without opening up the engine. how much boost will the standard turbo and engine safely cope with using a front mount intercooler and 3 inch exhaust? I do like to drive hard.

The general thought on here is that you can get around 250rwkw safely without opening an RB25. With a thicker head gasket to lower compression you could probably extend this figure to around 290-300 (I have seen just over 300 from an R34 RB25, but I don't know how long it lasted).

Jeff.

Originally posted by falconsvo

G'day guys,

Just wondering what the max output (kW) I can get out of my R33 GTST without opening up the engine. how much boost will the standard turbo and engine safely cope with using a front mount intercooler and 3 inch exhaust? I do like to drive hard.

there appears to be a "rule of thumb" that 12 psi is the peak for standard intercooler, and 14 psi is the peak for fmic on standard gtst-t ceramic turbs, in order to run with any degree of safety before something goes bang.

that said, I am running 9 psi, and many others are running a lot less than the above quoted figures. Draw from that what you will.

the difference in rwkw between 12 and 14 from gt25t seems to be very little, although there is a significant increase in torque.

expect 250-300rwhp. I cbf working out what that is in rwkw.

also, find the search button cause these sorts of questions have been asked a bazillion times before.

  • 3 weeks later...

Went to Heathcote today and shaved half a sec off my pb with 13.8312 @ 101.50mph 60ft 2.2039.

Mods since last time are 3" front/dump pipe, pineapples, bleed valve running 0.7bar (~10psi).

I was impressed :)

Just finished reading the threads guys ,great stuff from some who really seem to know there stuff.

Just my bit on BOV I had a Turbo Smart Type 2 fitted to my R34 I could never seem to adjust it correctly and therefore the car ran like a dog.I have since removed it and gone back to the factory one and now the car runs ever so sweet.In fact it would be safe to say the car has never run so well.

  • 2 weeks later...

on the subject about external bov's.. ( I have one and have been using them since my first turbo car) I have a few good friends with an R32 GTS-T and an R33 GTS-T. one has a blitz and the other has an HKS SQV Bov. Now I dunno if this is common with skyline's, but we have realised that their car's tend to have a habit of suddenly dying while driving normally! the car doesn't backfire, or run shit or anything.. just completely dies while driving.

is that a common issue for skyline's running a full atmo bov? cause the same thing happening to 2 guys in a row is sure as hell weird.

8thSIN - it's possible that the suddenly dying bit is caused by the BOV. Venting BOV's will cause the car to stop/die when you go on boost to off boost at lowish RPM's.

An example would be if you were accelerating at low RPM with a bit of boost, then suddenly come off the accelerator and press the clutch in. If the BOV isn't ajusted right, it will vent the air causing the mixtures to go mega rich which will cause the engine to stall. And with the clutch pressed in it hasn't got the momentum of the car to keep the engine going.

Does that make sense ??

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...