Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Furthur to my investigation, taken from Wikipedia

"Faultfinding and diagnosis

Constant velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.

Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.

Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter. Kits which include the grease, gaiter and retaining clips are available from most motor factors. Some universal gaiters are split lengthwise enabling them to be fitted without having to disassemble the wheel hub and CV joint."

Hmm!! The car park scenario with a clunk sounds very like my situation.

Anyway, if someone who knows could reply, that would be great.

It is good learning all these things at 18. Hopefully by the time I am 20+ ill be able to do most things to my/friends cars myself. Should save me a lot of money over the next maybe 40-50 years of car modifing.

I'll stop repling to my own thread now ;)

hey alex good work, it saves bulk cash doin stuff yourself and its not hard with a workshop manual and a few tools to do most jobs.

it sounds like the wheel bearing inside the rear hub on the side u said slid in and out and clunked, available from nissan for about $50 i think if i remember correctly.

if it happen when u turn then it is obviously pulling the wheel in or out of the centre of the diff abit and causing the clunking noise.

cheers

Brad

Should save me a lot of money over the next maybe 40-50 years of car modifing.

I don't think they'll be too much to mod in that long, we'll be lucky to have petrol in 30 years. dunno what sort of mods you could do to an electric car

I don't think they'll be too much to mod in that long, we'll be lucky to have petrol in 30 years. dunno what sort of mods you could do to an electric car

im sure people said that in the 60s and 70s when they said all cars will be fuel injected and computer controlled.

So, I should get the wheel bearings for both or CV joints too,

Might as welll do the full lot if i am poking around no?

Are wheel bearing hard to replace?

im pretty sure u need a press to push them in, but not 100% sure, i did mine about 6 months ago and ive done lots of other stuff too soo it gets confusing which tasks were easy/hard/etc.

it requires removal of the rear hub which is easy if u have recently done all the bushes and u would have fiddled with most of the required bolts before for the suspension kits. just get the hub off totally bare and take it to a suspension shop and they will press in the new bearing and then just reinstall hub as u took it off.

i just checked the gtr workshop manual and yes a press is needed to press the old ones out and the new bearings in.

i can give u the instructions from the gtr workshop manual if u like, im going out in 5 min so i havent got time at the moment, but ill write it out for you tommorow.

hope it helps

Brad

I was sliding in and out the axle (at the top of the pic)

It was making a clunk inside the hub somewhere, here is a picture of the hub from FAST

hub9jb.jpg

I might replace the wheel bearings anyway, its not a bad thing to do anyway, but i dont see how replacing the wheel bearings will stop the clunk inside the hub?

As it appears, I shouldnt need to press anything out, its just a bolt on.

Sorry for doubting, just dont want to spend money if i really dont have to?

Let me know what you think brad/SK, i value your opinions

I was sliding in and out the axle (at the top of the pic)

It was making a clunk inside the hub somewhere, here is a picture of the hub from FAST

hub9jb.jpg

I might replace the wheel bearings anyway, its not a bad thing to do anyway, but i dont see how replacing the wheel bearings will stop the clunk inside the hub?

As it appears, I shouldnt need to press anything out, its just a bolt on.

Sorry for doubting, just dont want to spend money if i really dont have to?

Let me know what you think brad/SK, i value your opinions

uni joint if it pulls in and out, and im not sure how to replace them exactly as i havent done one before. wheel bearing is more wheel wobbling left to right and loose when wiggled (when off the ground).

sorry for saying wheel bearing, just didnt think properly, but i'd suggest take it down to a suspension shop and they should tell u in 2 sec what it is exactly without em removing anything if they know what they are doing to be 100% sure, as u say u dont wanna replace bits and find it still clunks.

oh also do u have the FAST program for the stagea series 1? do u know where i could download it from for free? :D

cheers

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner

Look in this thread Brad http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=44182

Page 5 you should find it, dont worry bout the a32, a33 files they are for cefiro's an maxima's.

All install info is in there aswell :D

  • 6 years later...

Possibly the simplest and best would be to get a new WGNC34 specific Nismo LSD unit.

Most Stagea diffs are 4.083:1 and you must end up with the same front and rear.

Some are 4.111:1 which as a matter of fact is less than 1% different from the 4.083 so may be compatible.

Skyline diffs are mainly either of those or 4.363:1

You may be able to just swap out the mechanical LSD and put your own crownwheel and pinion back.

The full list is here: http://www.nismo.co....f/lsd_price.pdf

The next problem is axle compatibility. Stageas have the bolts arranged in three pairs (3x2). Most Skylines are 5x1 but GTRs are 6 x 1

You can change the whole rear end as I did but you probably have to change the abs sensors and find somewhere to hang the atessa pump as Skylines do it differently from Stageas. I did it because I wanted the GTR LSD and also the GTR axles (for greater strength for the extra torque from my RB30.

If you just want a good mechanical LSD a new Nismo unit (if they still sell the WGNC34 specific item) may well be cost effective.

  • 11 months later...

in regards to a stagea s1 diff swap a r33 gts-t centre fit in?? just swap the shaft hubs in the diff or wat?

or s15 centre.. I was under the impression there wasnt much option.. n no aftermarket upgrades

thanks heaps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...