Stagea Diff - Is It Wearing Out - Replace With?

[AlexCim]

Furthur to my investigation, taken from Wikipedia

"Faultfinding and diagnosis

Constant velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.

Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.

Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter. Kits which include the grease, gaiter and retaining clips are available from most motor factors. Some universal gaiters are split lengthwise enabling them to be fitted without having to disassemble the wheel hub and CV joint."

Hmm!! The car park scenario with a clunk sounds very like my situation.

Anyway, if someone who knows could reply, that would be great.

It is good learning all these things at 18. Hopefully by the time I am 20+ ill be able to do most things to my/friends cars myself. Should save me a lot of money over the next maybe 40-50 years of car modifing.

I'll stop repling to my own thread now

[CruiseLiner]

hey alex good work, it saves bulk cash doin stuff yourself and its not hard with a workshop manual and a few tools to do most jobs.

it sounds like the wheel bearing inside the rear hub on the side u said slid in and out and clunked, available from nissan for about $50 i think if i remember correctly.

if it happen when u turn then it is obviously pulling the wheel in or out of the centre of the diff abit and causing the clunking noise.

cheers

Brad

[Terminal]

Should save me a lot of money over the next maybe 40-50 years of car modifing.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I don't think they'll be too much to mod in that long, we'll be lucky to have petrol in 30 years. dunno what sort of mods you could do to an electric car

[CruiseLiner]

I don't think they'll be too much to mod in that long, we'll be lucky to have petrol in 30 years. dunno what sort of mods you could do to an electric car

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

im sure people said that in the 60s and 70s when they said all cars will be fuel injected and computer controlled.

[AlexCim]

So, I should get the wheel bearings for both or CV joints too,

Might as welll do the full lot if i am poking around no?

Are wheel bearing hard to replace?

[CruiseLiner]

So, I should get the wheel bearings for both or CV joints too,

Might as welll do the full lot if i am poking around no?

Are wheel bearing hard to replace?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

im pretty sure u need a press to push them in, but not 100% sure, i did mine about 6 months ago and ive done lots of other stuff too soo it gets confusing which tasks were easy/hard/etc.

it requires removal of the rear hub which is easy if u have recently done all the bushes and u would have fiddled with most of the required bolts before for the suspension kits. just get the hub off totally bare and take it to a suspension shop and they will press in the new bearing and then just reinstall hub as u took it off.

i just checked the gtr workshop manual and yes a press is needed to press the old ones out and the new bearings in.

i can give u the instructions from the gtr workshop manual if u like, im going out in 5 min so i havent got time at the moment, but ill write it out for you tommorow.

hope it helps

Brad

[AlexCim]

I was sliding in and out the axle (at the top of the pic)

It was making a clunk inside the hub somewhere, here is a picture of the hub from FAST

I might replace the wheel bearings anyway, its not a bad thing to do anyway, but i dont see how replacing the wheel bearings will stop the clunk inside the hub?

As it appears, I shouldnt need to press anything out, its just a bolt on.

Sorry for doubting, just dont want to spend money if i really dont have to?

Let me know what you think brad/SK, i value your opinions

[CruiseLiner]

I was sliding in and out the axle (at the top of the pic)

It was making a clunk inside the hub somewhere, here is a picture of the hub from FAST

I might replace the wheel bearings anyway, its not a bad thing to do anyway, but i dont see how replacing the wheel bearings will stop the clunk inside the hub?

As it appears, I shouldnt need to press anything out, its just a bolt on.

Sorry for doubting, just dont want to spend money if i really dont have to?

Let me know what you think brad/SK, i value your opinions

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

uni joint if it pulls in and out, and im not sure how to replace them exactly as i havent done one before. wheel bearing is more wheel wobbling left to right and loose when wiggled (when off the ground).

sorry for saying wheel bearing, just didnt think properly, but i'd suggest take it down to a suspension shop and they should tell u in 2 sec what it is exactly without em removing anything if they know what they are doing to be 100% sure, as u say u dont wanna replace bits and find it still clunks.

oh also do u have the FAST program for the stagea series 1? do u know where i could download it from for free?

cheers

Brad

Edited February 12, 2006 by CruiseLiner

[beastien]

Look in this thread Brad http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=44182

Page 5 you should find it, dont worry bout the a32, a33 files they are for cefiro's an maxima's.

All install info is in there aswell

[Ska]

I have all the cd's and can burn them on cd if anyone wants them

[nisrob]

can anyone add to this topic? like the best/cheapest option to upgrade to an lsd. i.e does an r33 gtst centre fit in?

thanks

[KiwiRS4T]

Possibly the simplest and best would be to get a new WGNC34 specific Nismo LSD unit.

Most Stagea diffs are 4.083:1 and you must end up with the same front and rear.

Some are 4.111:1 which as a matter of fact is less than 1% different from the 4.083 so may be compatible.

Skyline diffs are mainly either of those or 4.363:1

You may be able to just swap out the mechanical LSD and put your own crownwheel and pinion back.

The full list is here: http://www.nismo.co....f/lsd_price.pdf

The next problem is axle compatibility. Stageas have the bolts arranged in three pairs (3x2). Most Skylines are 5x1 but GTRs are 6 x 1

You can change the whole rear end as I did but you probably have to change the abs sensors and find somewhere to hang the atessa pump as Skylines do it differently from Stageas. I did it because I wanted the GTR LSD and also the GTR axles (for greater strength for the extra torque from my RB30.

If you just want a good mechanical LSD a new Nismo unit (if they still sell the WGNC34 specific item) may well be cost effective.

[nisrob]

in regards to a stagea s1 diff swap a r33 gts-t centre fit in?? just swap the shaft hubs in the diff or wat?

or s15 centre.. I was under the impression there wasnt much option.. n no aftermarket upgrades

thanks heaps