Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

before anyone says anything I have searched, but I have come across an issue not covered so I feel it warrants a new topic.

after installing a NC relay from the TT on the alarm ignition sense wire and when the car is running, wouldnt the relay still be powered? (and hence open), therefore the alarm would think the car is not running.

Ive shown my reasoning for this the second part of the attached diagram

Im asking about this as I wish to retain my auto arm feature, yet I dont want my car to arm the alarm 2min after I drive off.

Im thinking the installation of the relay is different from as I have drawn, so If anyone could correct me I would be much appreciative.

cheers

tt25bt.th.jpg

Edited by midnight
before anyone says anything I have searched, but I have come across an issue not covered so I feel it warrants a new topic.

after installing a NC relay from the TT on the alarm ignition sense wire and when the car is running, wouldnt the relay still be powered? (and hence open), therefore the alarm would think the car is not running.

Ive shown my reasoning for this the second part of the attached diagram

Im asking about this as I wish to retain my auto arm feature, yet I dont want my car to arm the alarm 2min after I drive off.

Im thinking the installation of the relay is different from as I have drawn, so If anyone could correct me I would be much appreciative.

cheers

tt25bt.th.jpg

do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem.

this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80)

see attachment:

post-2209-1130753283.jpg

Ive had a think about this,

Can't I just additionally install a NO relay on the fuel pump feed wire, across where it has been cut to accomodate the alarm?

That way the alarm wont cut the fuel pump until the timer has finished counting down.

Do any alarms activate fuel cut only when the car has been breached? Or, do they all activate fuel cut upon arming? Is it possible to only cut certain points when the car is breached, and not simply when the alarm is armed?

Thanks (hopefully you understand what I mean).

midnght,

yes you can. HOWEVER. hide the wire that feeds it VERY well.

mikymouse,

depends on the alarm. 90% of them do it on arming. in regard to you certain points question. this is the basics of quiktrak system. IGN,Starter are done and the fuel or other system is done remotely.

Ok, let's say the alarm cuts the points on arming. If you want to have remote start and still have a point of immobilization going to the fuel pump, is it possible to install a relay going to the fuel pump that cuts the fuel pump's power when the siren is given power. hmm.. actually on second thought, might not be such a good idea, as the siren usually beeps on arming. Is there anything else it could be wired to?

best to leave the idea alone. look at it this way- If I find out where you live I can take the car in an instant seeing as you have already done most of the hard work for me bypassing the alarm..

do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem.

this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80)

see attachment:

Hey chris. what did you mean you wont need it if you have an M80? i saw something in the description for the m80 that it has turbo timer interface....does that mean it has something to hook up to a turbo timer without any hassles?

do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem.

this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80)

see attachment:

Hey Guys, This thread helped me as the fool who own my car previously wired the ignition imobilisation to the starter motor. so the car would arm 30 seconds after starting the car. No wonder he didn't have the siren connected!! You couldn't restart it if you stalled unless you unarmed it , but then again you could roll start it anyway! Great security. Anyway, Thanks to the thread I rewired my alarm using a relay. I could not make sense of the diagram provided by Chris Rodgers but this is how I did mine and it works a treat. you can arm it with the engine still running and It wont set of the alarm either. if you put the key back in the ignition after arming it - it will still cut out. You might be able to integrate a fuel cut but I don't know. You might be able to utilise a 555 timer from jaycar which might give you a fuel cut time delay, or simply another turbo timer connected where your fuel ut is.

Anyway - here's my wiring.

post-19015-1131196773.jpg

Edited by chrissso

Hey chris. what did you mean you wont need it if you have an M80? i saw something in the description for the m80 that it has turbo timer interface....does that mean it has something to hook up to a turbo timer without any hassles?

yep the option is there for it. have a read in the book when yours gets to you and its option 13. you still need the timer.

Hey Guys,  This thread helped me as the fool who own my car previously wired the ignition imobilisation to the starter motor. so the car would arm 30 seconds after starting the car.  No wonder he didn't have the siren connected!!  You couldn't restart it if you stalled unless you unarmed it , but then again you could roll start it anyway! Great security.  Anyway,  Thanks to the thread I rewired my alarm using a relay.  I could not make sense of the diagram provided by Chris Rodgers but this is how I did mine and it works a treat.  you can arm it with the engine still running and It wont set of the alarm either. if you put the key back in the ignition after arming it  -  it will still cut out.  You might be able to integrate a fuel cut but I don't  know.  You might be able to utilise a 555 timer from jaycar which might give you a fuel cut time delay,  or simply another  turbo timer connected where your fuel ut is.

Anyway - here's my wiring.

post-19015-1131196773.jpg

thats pretty much what I had done. I left the alarm out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...