Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling Problems

hijaked

By hijaked,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
Posted

hey all

seeing as though the race that stops the nation wassnt till this afternoon. i was bored.

im getting a new boost controller soon, but i wanted to play with the one currently in my car, see the affects, if my new one will be any better and what not.

the boost controller i have now is a old skool turbosmart duel stage one, but the circut to switch to the bigger valve doesnt seem to work (cant be botherd fixing it, no circuit, broken switch) and the 'always on' side doesnt allow much boost. i unscrewd the 'always on' valve and according to my boost gauge, it maxed out at .8 bar ish and min was around .3bar ish

upuntill today ive been running .5 bar, and the car has an xhaust, fmic and a turbo smart type 3 (plumback) bov.

i got over the boosting and put it all back to normal (well .4bar) except now my car stalls when ever you rev it, coming off the accelerator. and it takes a while to get back to idle, nearly stalling each time

- i thought maybe my turbo is blown (hope not!)

- maybe its the bov ( but i thought plumback never had the atmospheric issues, altho problem is much like having an atmosphric bov!!)

- the boost controller is broke, or the boost isnt set right (didnt think it would be too much of a problem, as it stalls even when above .5bar)

- when i turn the a/c on, it doesnt stall. wel it helps keepin the revs up)

have any of you experienced this?? or know whats going on with my car??

any help would be much appreciated!!

- Dave -

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93230-stalling-problems/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Take off the AAC valve and clean it. It is located towards the firewall of the plenum (top of the inlet manifold). Should be held in place by 4 10mm bolts. Be careful to not break the gasket when removing but don't be too stressed if you do. Get your hands on a can of Carby clean and spray that mo fo until the can is empty. Get all the crap out (black shit). Usually what happens is they get a little gummed up with soot and it causes them to operate in a less than effective manner. Don't try to remove the valve itself, held in by two screws unless you have a good screwdriver or impact driver of some sort otherwise you will damage the screw heads. Once clean, slap it back on and bob's your aunty. If you broke the gasket upon removal, get some locktight 518 flange sealant(comes in a red tube and is gooey to touch) and use the smallest amount to just cover the area you wanna seal. Be careful not to put too much on otherwise you will actually block the hole that requires air to pass.

It is also possible that by changing boost setting you have introduced a vacuum leak of some sort, in some unknown location but usually it will only drop in idle for a second then just idle high from then on. I doubt this is your problem.

Give the first one a go and see how you come up. Should only cost you about $15 all up and should be done regularly anyway.

Also, if you have any carby clean spare you can use it to clean the throttle body (where the butterfly is) They can also get a build up of gunk around the edge causing your car to konk out.

Very dirty air filter will also cause stalling problems so check to make sure it is clean.

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hey

havn't had time to muck around with it, coz i got exams round this time. took the car for a drive, still pretty pissed with it!

its a bitch to drive without the power. it has virtually no boost after 100kph and the car stops pulling in 4th gear at 4000rpm ish. boost before that is petty.

my bov makes a totally different noise, its more a woooosh then the ppsssshhiii it used to be. would that be a sign of a leak? or is my turbo dead?

i got a new boost controller today, and i poped it on. it does a better job than my last one, more responsive and smoother. my car nearly has a chance to beat a commo now.

thanks for the help, 'elite forse' ? ill give your first idea a go when i get the time, and ill clean my filter, my roads dont do it any favor.

cheers

Edited by hijaked

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      The detail level is about right for the money they charge for the full kit... AU$21.00 each issue, 110 issues for a total of $2,300 (I mentioned $2.2K in the first post when the exchange rate was better). $20/week is doable... 😐
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - World Time Attack Challenge - 5 & 6 September

      By Keeper · Posted

      If planning on joining us for the day(s) please indicate by filling in this form. https://forms.gle/Ma8Nn4DzYVA8uDHg7
    • soviet_merlin
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.
×
×
  • Create New...