Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty much what everyone else says.

Your ECU retains several parameters, and the algorithm uses them as variables when determining its actions.

So if the engine's knock sensors pick up stuff, it'll pull the engine back further and further to avoid breaking something. That's how the ECU adjusts to varying quality fuels.

It also has sensors to pick up various temps (inlet, EGT, etc) to adjust its settings to pro-actively avoid engine-damaging states of tune. So the hotter the weather, it knows to run less advance immediately, rather than waiting until your engine knocks to pull it back.

It might also determine from your driving style (i.e. steady state cruising on the highway) that you're not using power, and lean the motor right out to conserve fuel. Or run a more aggressive map if you're thrashing it.

Resetting the ECU clears all those parameters, so the ECU starts from a clean slate. So if you've been running bodgy fuel or babying the car and you've just topped up with some nice 98RON to hit the track, it'll be faster to switch to an aggressive mode than thrashing it and having the ECU notice.

If some of those parameters refuse to update, you might have to clear them forcibly by resetting.

It won't damage the car as long as you take the appropriate precautions.

Obviously if you're running a filthy batch of 91RON unleaded in 30 degree ambient heat, your ECU is going to have picked that up and pulled back the performance to protect the engine.

You get rid of its knowledge that its dealing with less than ideal fuel and air, and then just hop straight in and thrash it.....the ECU will eventually re-learn and pull back the performance again. But, until that happens...........

But if you've loaded up a tank of known-good fuel and its nice cold weather, if the car's feeling a little sluggish its definitely worth giving an ECU reset a try.

It shouldn't affect your EBC settings. Unless your ECU and EBC have weird interconnects (perhaps you're running an E-Manage with your Profec? I don't know...I'm not that familiar with GReddy's products) the two units are standalone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...