Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I though the stock fpr ran of the vacuum from the plenum chamber not the actually pressure in the fuel rail?

It does, the stock reg is set to provide about 2.5bar (i think) base fuel pressure at atmospheric pressure.

The vacuum/boost signal off the plenum maintains that set pressure differential by increasing/reducing the restiction in the fuel line created by the reg, so if you are running 1 bar boost at any given time, you will have the reg holding 3.5bar fuel pressure and you still have a 2.5bar difference in pressure.

There are minor differences as it's a dynamic system and changes in flow (say by adding a bigger fuel pump) effect it a bit which is part of why you see a higher base pressure on the stock reg when running a higher flowing pump.

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well that is how I though it worked. let me just re explain to make sure what Im thinking is right with you line of thinking.

The fpr is controller via the plenum. If you adjust the idle screw you will see a drop or increase in pressure if you have an inline in guage. The fpr basically acts like a valve, how far open it is, is determined position via the vacuum. Thus the stock fuel pump and the fpr go hand the hand, they are dependant on each other to give the correct factory fuel pressure to the injectors.. for eg

fuel pressure = 50 psi

fpr is open at 50% ... 25psi to injectors , 25psi back to the tank.

Increasing decreasing the fuel pressure will alter the pressure to the injector and back to the tank.

The fpr is just a valve which open and closes via a vacuum thats it. Therefore changing fuel pressure will change how much pressure goes to the injectors..

if Im wrong please set me straight. :(

I was told of issues that have been seen with the 044 pump and std regs.

'Apparently' the std reg has trouble passing enough fuel to keep pressure low on idle, as a result fuel pressure *slowly* increases until what pressure I don't know. Closed loop is able to handle the increase in pressure 'apparently'.

It only causes a problem on non closed loop ecu motors.

How much of a problem.. I don't know. Tim Possingham mentioned he had come across this problem. Not really a problem just an annoyance.

I have run a Bosch 044 at 13.8 volts with a standard FPR on a number of cars. That's double the flow of a standard GTR pump at the standard 11.2 volts. NONE of them had more than the standard fuel pressure of 36-38 psi.

The exit orifice from the standard FPR is ~6.5mm, compared to the 7.5mm outlet orifice of an 044 pump. The piston in the FPR moves ~10mm so that is not an issue either.

If you are getting a true 44 psi in the rail at idle, with the standard FPR and the vacuum line disconnected, then something is wrong. There is a blockage or some other restriction in the return system (inc the FPR) to the tank. This will give unpredictable results and is therefore very dangerous. I strongly suggest that you find out what the problem is and fix it.

:) cheers :D

I have finish an anround town fuel usage test with the new pump..

$30 of fuel at 1.16/L of 95 ron gave me 277ks and still counting maybe 10 more... so at 277 ks = 9.33 L / 100ks .. Adding a bigger fuel pump has no effect on fuel usage - as expected :) ... Mine you I didn't go over 4500 once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...