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I just picked up a 94 gts25t. Right now its running stock boost(0.5BAR) but has a Link plus plug in ECU(im told) I can find the MAP sensor at the air filter as its not running an AFM(defect problem 2.5hours after buying lol).

1st question is Iv looked where the stock ecu is, and cant find where it has been pluged in, but can see what looks like wireing has been spliced. Also, what is ppls experience with this system(couldnt find anything on search)

2nd: Running the stock BOV(with flutter sound) I am looking to start running more boost, but from reading other posts on the "flutter bov" and it not being good for the turbo, esply if running more than stock boost. Would my next best option be the boost controler or an aftermarket BOV to protect the turbo??

Im running PWR fmic, 3.5cat back exhaust, k&n pod.

sorry for the novel :(

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my car has been fluttering since i bought it, about a year.. i always thought the flutter was the ssq bov, untill lastweek wehn i relised the bov was lock tightened shut :P , but in the week its been riceing theres no performance gained, but in the year of it fluttering the turbo has been fine and no damage, same lag same everything..althogh im only running 9psi..... my experience

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I just picked up a 94 gts25t. Right now its running stock boost(0.5BAR) but has a Link plus plug in ECU(im told) I can find the MAP sensor at the air filter as its not running an AFM(defect problem 2.5hours after buying lol).

1st question is Iv looked where the stock ecu is, and cant find where it has been pluged in, but can see what looks like wireing has been spliced. Also, what is ppls experience with this system(couldnt find anything on search)

2nd: Running the stock BOV(with flutter sound) I am looking to start running more boost, but from reading other posts on the "flutter bov" and it not being good for the turbo, esply if running more than stock boost. Would my next best option be the boost controler or an aftermarket BOV to protect the turbo??

Im running PWR fmic, 3.5cat back exhaust, k&n pod.

sorry for the novel  :P

1.

I don't really understand the question. The link ECU is a full replacement ECU. The standard ECU is a grey box in left side kick panel passenger front area. It will have a Hitachi label on it with like H4 or M3 or a letter and number combination. it could also be that someone has fitted the casing of a stock ECU to a link ECU to hide it. If the car is running on a map sensor then it certainly isnt the stock ECU. Bear in mind you loose tuning accuracy with a map sensor as well.

2.

Are you sure its the stock BOV? The stock bov under normal operation will not flutter. It sounds like someone has been fiddling or the unit is damaged / failed. You should check if its the original unit and if it is working correctly or swap with a 2nd hand known working one. In "flutter mode" it will be causing damage. Change your dump/front pipe combo to a good 3" unit and you should make some more power and gain a nice upgrade to your powerband everywhere. You can gain more power and less lag without "turning up the boost".

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paul, for the first question, you had it right on. I was looking for a way to identify the new ecu. It is the stock nissan casing with P5(if that means anything) so im ausming your right with who ever fitted it, must have put it in the nissan case, but like i said, the link map sensor is right there at the filter...

Yep its the stock BOV. I checked all the lines, they all seemed in order.... it did have a after market one fitted at one stage but to much cop trouble forced him to remove it.

also forgot to mention the 3" dump pipe and cat are on their way, my bad :D

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paul, for the first question, you had it right on. I was looking for a way to identify the new ecu. It is the stock nissan casing with P5(if that means anything) so im ausming your right with who ever fitted it, must have put it in the nissan case, but like i said, the link map sensor is right there at the filter...

Yep its the stock BOV. I checked all the lines, they all seemed in order.... it did have a after market one fitted at one stage but to much cop trouble forced him to remove it.

also forgot to mention the 3" dump pipe and cat are on their way, my bad  :D

I'm sure the map sensor will not be in the intake pipe next to the filter, it has to measure the pressure in the intake manifold to give the correct load signal to the ecu. Pressure in the filter will always be atmospheric pressure?

Edited by PlasticStan
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I'm sure the map sensor will not be in the intake pipe next to the filter, it has to measure the pressure in the intake manifold to give the correct load signal to the ecu. Pressure in the filter will always be atmospheric pressure?

yeah you would be right. Its just mounted there...

anyone here using or had experience with this system??

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take the 2 bolts that hold the bov in place off.

there may be a blanking plate under it.

or they may have blocked the return line..

take the bov off and see if you can push the piston in by hand. you should be able to with a little bit of force.

edit - as for the link ecu, I though that they came with a display screen as well.

Edited by GTST
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Iv bn told that with the unit i have, a hand controler was an "extra" that set you back $300 odd bucks. You can rent one from your nearest link rep to tune it when you please.............so i have bn told........

anyway, cleared the defects i was handed 3 hours after buyin the thing today....happy camper:).........man my wallet hurts

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The Link plug in ecus are vehicle specific and are designed to sit inside the standard ecus casing so I dare say thats where it is.

There is no way that the MAP sensor is at the air filter, full stop. The car would not be running correctly if that was the case.

I would say its the ambient air temp sensor which can be used to trigger such things as a water spray at a given ambient air temp.

Lastly, how did you clear a defect for not having an AFM? I would have thought it was a very serious defect needing a return to factory ecu to clear? Along with mind boggling fines?

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The Link plug in ecus are vehicle specific and are designed to sit inside the standard ecus casing so I dare say thats where it is.

There is no way that the MAP sensor is at the air filter, full stop. The car would not be running correctly if that was the case.

I would say its the ambient air temp sensor which can be used to trigger such things as a water spray at a given ambient air temp.

Lastly, how did you clear a defect for not having an AFM? I would have thought it was a very serious defect needing a return to factory ecu to clear? Along with mind boggling fines?

No i realise that, its just mounted there with the wireing running back into the engine, which I am assuming runs into the intake manifold(or where its ment to be)

As for the AFM....well lets just say it involved some friends who are in the biz, a good engineer and a VL turbo AFM borrowed for the day.... B)

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