Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just looking for some advice on what to start with for modifications. I have a stock r32 GTR and i am looking to purchase apexi airfilters, trust intercooler, full exhaust system and BOV's. Would these mods be a good start? Any opinions appreciated! Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94730-modificaton-order/
Share on other sites

firstly,

cat back exhaust (or if you have the dough go for dumps, fronts, cat and the rest)

either a K+N in the stock air box, or the apexi pods if you must

then you'll want a boost controller of some kind

Power FC is next and couple that with a set of cam gears

forget the trust FMIC on an otherwise stock GTR it's a waste of time and money. there is nothing wrong with the stock GTR cooler under 300rwkw. no real need for the bovs either as the GTR alread has nice twin bovs from the factory but if you are keen just make sure you get a GTR specific kit. I quite like the trust type R kit, or the blitz super sequential is nice too. i can't stand the HKS ones though.

firstly,

cat back exhaust (or if you have the dough go for dumps, fronts, cat and the rest)

either a K+N in the stock air box, or the apexi pods if you must

then you'll want a boost controller of some kind

Power FC is next and couple that with a set of cam gears

forget the trust FMIC on an otherwise stock GTR it's a waste of time and money. there is nothing wrong with the stock GTR cooler under 300rwkw. no real need for the bovs either as the GTR alread has nice twin bovs from the factory but if you are keen just make sure you get a GTR specific kit. I quite like the trust type R kit, or the blitz super sequential is nice too. i can't stand the HKS ones though.

Yeah i was thinking of getting the trust Type R BOV's. Okay so i think i will get my Trust power extreme 2 cat back exhaust first with a high flow cat and a trust front pipe until i get paid <_< . My front mount seems a little dirty, im not sure if its still efficient.. how much does it cost to get it flushed and cleaned?

don't waste your money on aftermarket BOV's, your standard ones work a treat.

Pod filters, you don't have to, the mines car is still using the standard airbox with a panel filter upgrade. GT-R cooler is good for 300 odd kw, as mentioned above, the just jap race car still uses the stocker.

Go for an exhaust, aftermarket ECU, an EBC and some cam gears to start off with and then go from there. Next thing after that will probably be a fuel pump, clutch, maybe injectors, cams, more boost? upgraded turbos?

Anyone?

don't waste your money on aftermarket BOV's, your standard ones work a treat.

Pod filters, you don't have to, the mines car is still using the standard airbox with a panel filter upgrade. GT-R cooler is good for 300 odd kw, as mentioned above, the just jap race car still uses the stocker.

Go for an exhaust, aftermarket ECU, an EBC and some cam gears to start off with and then go from there. Next thing after that will probably be a fuel pump, clutch, maybe injectors, cams, more boost? upgraded turbos?

Anyone?

ok thanks for that! what sort of boost is it safe to run with the stock cooler? would something like a greddy emanage piggy back computer be good enough or should I go a full replacement computer? Im only looking to mildy mod my car. like 240kw or so?

the stock bnr32 intercooler should be for around 300rwkw

however the exhaust wheels on the 16 year old turbochargers wont be.

they will let go near 1.0 bar and then youll have to fork out for a new turbo (or a pair) and thats if it doesnt do any damage when it fails, which it has known to do on the rb26. more boost means more heat simple

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...