Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm replacing the oil in a R32 Viscus LSD diff, since it wasn't delivered to australia they don't seem to list the type of oil required in the books in the auto parts stores. Can someone recommend a Castrol oil that would be suitable? I say Castrol because all the other fluids are castrol and I like to keep it in the family :P

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/
Share on other sites

If the oil isnt black and its still gold, dont worry about it, the oil that the japanese use in diffs as such is much thicker and better........but if its black yeh change it with what u think is necessary, aussie oil isnt as good.......but its easier to find then HKS diff oil or something like that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/#findComment-1713579
Share on other sites

Well the oil wont go black in a diff, cos theres nothing to contamniate it with, but it still might be 'worn out'.

You can safely use any GL5 oil that is rated for a differential. It does NOT have to specifically be for an LSD type diff, because the viscous unit is not affected by the oil. Cos you like castrol you can use;

Castrol EPX 80W90

Castrol Multitrax

Castrol SAF-XA (Synthetic)

Castrol Syntrax (Synthetic) <--- Recommend this one.

Cheers.

Edited by Busky2k
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/#findComment-1713956
Share on other sites

If the oil isnt black and its still gold, dont worry about it, the oil that the japanese use in diffs as such is much thicker and better........but if its black yeh change it with what u think is necessary, aussie oil isnt as good.......but its easier to find then HKS diff oil or something like that

Where did you get the idea that Japanese oil is better than Australian. That is not true.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/#findComment-1713983
Share on other sites

Well the oil wont go black in a diff, cos theres nothing to contamniate it with, but it still might be 'worn out'.

You can safely use any GL5 oil that is rated for a differential. It does NOT have to specifically be for an LSD type diff, because the viscous unit is not affected by the oil. Cos you like castrol you can use;

Castrol EPX 80W90

Castrol Multitrax

Castrol SAF-XA (Synthetic)

Castrol Syntrax (Synthetic)  <--- Recommend this one.

Cheers.

The oil in a diff CAN go black. If it has been punished it will become burnt, the more burnt it becomes, the more black it becomes.

As for Castrol oil - I would not touch the crap. I put Castrol oil in three seperate Skyline Diffs and all three developed a whining noise. One of those was my car and the whine got worse and worse until I changed it - for the third time. Castrol don't want to know anything about it because it is an Import.

I only ever recommend REDLINE Diff Oil. You should use a 90 or 140 grade. Places like Autobarn can get it for you or if you are in Brisbane, Thompson Spare Parts stock it on the shelf.

If you have to use Castrol, ONLY USE THE SYNTRAX AS SUGGESTED ABOVE. The top two listed will wreck your diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/#findComment-1714014
Share on other sites

Well not everyone wants to buy synthetic so yes, I suggested the mineral oils, although I would not use them myself.

If the diff oil is going black, it is most likely to be poor quality (ie lots of oxidising), poor sealing issues, or there is lots of wear happening!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/#findComment-1719511
Share on other sites

The oil in a diff CAN go black. If it has been punished it will become burnt, the more burnt it becomes, the more black it becomes.

3lit3 if the oil is gone/punished,will you start hearing a clunk when engaging first or reverse?or does that just mean the diff is probably worn?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94868-r32-diff-oil/#findComment-1723603
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...