Jump to content
SAU Community

Front splits and rear speaker advice

400HP

By 400HP,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

400HP Experienced

400HP

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm interested in front splits, rear speakers (possibly 6"..... do 6x9's even fit?) and an amplifier to power these. Later I plan to get a small solo-baric sub with a seperate amp...... but for the meantime this will do.... I guess having an alpine stacker (fm modulated at the moment) I will get an alpine headunit as well.

I'm not looking to spend much money.... Was wondering what setup everyone has??

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/950-front-splits-and-rear-speaker-advice/
Share on other sites
Guest AFRO_BOY

Guest AFRO_BOY

Posted
Posted

Most likely 6x9's won't fit in your car coz i dont know what car has stock 6x9's. If you have a Holden you'll need to cut a hole for the 6x9's with a grinder, if u have a ford, you should be able to use tin snips, with nissans i have no idea.

You obviously know atleast some of you stuff coz those solobarics are beautiful but a bitch to power, if you plan on getting them, dont waste ur money on cheap speakers coz they make your music. Whats the point of having a good drummer without a nice vocalist.

If your gonna definitely go with solobaric or any good sub, your in for a lot of cash for the sub and a good amp. So if you spend the cash i'd say go for Infinity speakers. When using subs, always put bigger speakers in the front, so i'd say getting a nice pair of front 6 inch splits, and a pair of good 6 inch speakers, its less hastle, sounds better, easier to power.

Kicker make good amps so maybe try getting a good deal with the kicker sub and amp together.

I love american stuff which is why i've got infinity 6x9's, plan to get infinity 2-ways in the front, powered by a 50 W-RMS x 4 Clarion amp which doesn't even power em to their full potential but still good, 2 orion subs to a cheap 600 Watt amp (had a 15-inch kicker but couldn't power it well). All hooked up to a mid range pioneer deck, 5450. Reason i've got 6x9's instead of 6 inches is coz my stock speaker holes would have to be cut anyway and i got a good deal on em.

Remember, your system will only sound as good as your shittest component so use good wiring too.

Infinity splits = $350 - 500

Infinity 6x9's = $250

Deck = $500

kicker amp = $400-600

:shake: :lol:

Guest AFRO_BOY

Guest AFRO_BOY

Posted
Posted

I forget that all you guys own nissans. I've got a holden so i don't know about some of this stuff, but either way i'd still use 6" instead of 6x9 if u can save the cash coz you want more sound in the front.

A mate of mine has only got tweeters hooked up to his stock speakers with his high powered subs, and then made his front splits REALLY powerful

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted

In my old WRX, I never used 6x9's in the rear. Because I've always believed that 6x9 are for those who can't fit a sub. Keep in mind that I'm after clarity rather than loudness. 6x9's plus a sub will make the bass sound muffled.

But if your after loudness, fit 6x9's in the rear.

hawks Mentor

hawks

Posted
Posted

remember when you do your stereo- you dont drive you car from the back seat, or watch a concert with your back turned.

put all your speakers in the front of your car!

buy some shitty 5" coaxails for the back

the only reason people put car audio gear in the boot is for space.

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by 400HP

what setup did you use dude? and more interestingly whats the setup in the gTR?

Sorry to say but the GTR is strictly for road/track. Therefore the audio is stock as a rock, except for the Kennwood deck. Less weight.

The WRX however, was more interesting. Deck was an Alpine unit with an equaliser and 10 stack CD. Front splits were 6' MB Quartz splits and the rear were 6' Phillips 2 way. The Subs were 2 Kenwood. Amps were 2 Nakamichi. One was a 4 way (for the splits) and a 2 way (bridged for the subs). Pretty hairy stuff as I was after clarity rather than noise.

But then again, that car was total rice. That + bodykit + lowered 18' rims. You get the drift.

Guest gee-wizz

Guest gee-wizz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

The WRX however, was more interesting. Deck was an Alpine unit with an equaliser and 10 stack CD. Front splits were 6' MB Quartz splits and the rear were 6' Phillips 2 way. The Subs were 2 Kenwood. Amps were 2 Nakamichi. One was a 4 way (for the splits) and a 2 way (bridged for the subs). Pretty hairy stuff as I was after clarity rather than noise.

Why did u mix quality gear like MB Quart & Nakamichi with Kenwood & Phillips?????! Oh well i'm sure it would still sound nice :uh-huh:

I'm pretty happy with the gear in my r32. Ive got a pioneer deck, MB Quart 5 1/4" splits up front, Rockford Fosgate punch 6" 2 ways in the back (6X9's are a waste if u plan on running subs) for the rear fill, 2 10" Alpine subs with all the speakers running off V12 amps. i would have preferred to go some 12's (Infinity reference 12's would be joy!) but i had these leftover from my last car.:)

good luck!

Guest gee-wizz

Guest gee-wizz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by ultim8DTM5

i can defend philips as useless rear fill, as for kenwood, theyre new dB subs are quite the goods...

as for yourself GEE-WIZZ, unless your rockfords were fanatics i dont want to hear a word from you!!!

jk

Sorry mate I didnt mean to offend you! :D Its just an unusual mix between high end and average gear. I'm not doubting that it sounds good! as for not having RF fanatics for my rear fill -I think that would be a bit of a waste (unless u have coin to blow). The 6" punches do an excellent job :uh-huh:

apologies if my original post sounded like i was having a go :P

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted

Those Phillips are to fill in the rear. So why spend so much?

As for the Kenwood subs, at the time, they were the best 12" on the market. Remember that I brought this around 1996 or 7 I think. Trust me, they killed a lot of other stuff on the market at that time.

ultim8DTM5 Experienced

ultim8DTM5

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by gee-wizz

Sorry mate I didnt mean to offend you! :D  Its just an unusual mix between high end and average gear. I'm not doubting that it sounds good! as for not having RF fanatics for my rear fill -I think that would be a bit of a waste (unless u have coin to blow). The 6" punches do an excellent job :uh-huh:

apologies if my original post sounded like i was having a go :)

hah yeah i was piss-taking too, felt i had to defend silver-arrows on his ol skool install (not as many brands around in 97, thou this was the 'lets build door pods!' phase of car audio, sadly missed...)

:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...