Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take out the spare wheel, rip out the plastic covering, fibreglass 1 sub in each corner of boot, make up a amp rack in the middle, done :D.

I have designs for a 12" side install sealed sub box too.

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

why 1 sub per amp?

2 subs per amp better... lower impedance more crunk foe ya system...

use 2 x 2ohm subs (Assuming they are Dual Voice Coils), run your monoblock at 1ohm.. a good 1kw RMS of power... considering the monoblock does 1 ohm stable...

thats more power than 2 subs running off 2 amps

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

Please do

it has a normal size one, like u would find in the engine bay of an commodore for example, also with rca'z what length is reccomended, i was thinking something about 12ft/4m is this right???

im running 4 gauge wiring into a distro block then thats going to each amp 1 monoblock and 1 4ch

system is 2 audiobahn 12z, kenwood 9152d monoblock, clarion 4ch, alpine type s splits for front and rear, and a pioneer audiovisual headunit

thanks

You can fit 'em in, but I would recomend to dump em for some 6.5 or whatever the factory size is as 6x9's are a good comprimise for getting bass without wanting a sub. You have 2 subs so I wouldn't worry about trying to fit 6x9's. If you do however you may need to bend/cut the parcel tray, which I definatley wouldn't recomend.

I'd runn 4g for each amp to a distro block, then 2 or 1g to the battery. Looks like you'll be getting some juice going into your system. Don't forget to fuse it correctly as close to the battery as possible.

ok, yeah ill prob go get a length of it and do that, as my amps are gonna be sitting on the sides of the boot

after spending a few hours working out measurements and all that stuff for my sub boxes, ive marked out everything in my boot, im gonna be making my sub boxes up next week as im going for my ps on monday so i wanna practice as much as possible

ill post pics up once the boot is carpeted

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...