Jump to content
SAU Community

Water in tail lights???

Guest Flawless

By Guest Flawless,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

d0p3y Grand Master

d0p3y

Posted
Posted

I read somewhere that the seals don't hold up too well in japanese weather, and therefore they perish easily and then water gets in.. I know i've seen plenty of R33's with water in their headlights, some tail lights, how you would remove it i'm not 100% sure. Perhaps you'd have to pull the tail light apart and let it dry out, then re-seal it.

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

There are some companies that do cleaning and resealing of headlights and tail-lights, it is possible to do yourself but it is very messy.

Just about all the seals in my car are starting to perish, the disadvantage of too much sun.

See'ya:burnout:

MrGTST Grand Master

MrGTST

Posted
Posted

hehe lol at PVA.... Yeah I got the problem where 1 headlight is all clear and looks good and the other light is all misty and foggy, like there has been water on the inside.... I need to find a way to clean it and make it look as good as the other one.... one day I suppose...

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

MrGTST,

If the crap is on the outside then just use Brasso on the lens, trust me it works. If it's on the inside then it's best to pay someone to do it properly, I can get you the phone number of some people in Perth who do it.

See'ya:burnout:

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

In my R31 i resealed my taillights when water started to get in. I opened it up, and gave it a good clean. The more water that gets in there, the more gunk that builds up

It was amazing how much brighter the tail-lights are after I did that.

I didn't find it to hard to do by myself. Not really hard at all. Get some Selly's All-Clear, the squirter gun, apply the silicon to the edges in moderation and re-attach the lens. You may have to hold it there for say 5 minutes(or apply some strong cloth tape to get it to stay in position). When it feels pretty glued on you can generally just leave it for a day or so and it will harden and it shouldn't come off and no more water will get in.

The silicon basically seals and glues it all back together all at the same time. Great stuff. $10 job prolly at most.

I haven't needed to on my R33 but I can't imagine it being much more difficult.

GTS-4-Freak Apprentice

GTS-4-Freak

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem with my r33.

The seals were fixed for $160 and its 100% better.

When it drys out and its just condensation on the light, you can do what i did and use a blowdryer on the outside of the light, use the fast and hot setting, close to the light, for about 15 minutes.....heat it up ...... it clears it up & helps for a day or so untill you fix it.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

While I was playing around yesterday near the boot I had a look... You can actually take the whole assembly out i'm pretty sure. There is about 5 nuts and you can probably just remove a few plugs and pull the whole assembly and go sick.

Didn't do it myself (no need) but i am sure you can DIY.

$160 for seals though? I am sure you can do a good job with any number of sealing products costing $10 at much.

SkylineMannen Collaborator

SkylineMannen

Posted
Posted

Yepp same probs over here, every tima i washes the car, left taillight is foggy inside and right is clean and dry, have take it under the operations table and come to a conclusion, between the rings are thay a hole, prox one centermeter in diameter and its there the dam water getting in, or is it my car ho dont have the plastic covers over the lights from inside? do you have those?

Cheers Klas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...