Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Modification


R33A31
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm new with Nissan, hope some 1 can advise on modification sequence.

Before this Nissan I'm play with Mitsubishi Evo 2 & modified as per www.dsm.org sequence & manage to achive 380 Hp till stage 3.

What about R33 RB25det ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

injectors (stockers run out of capcity around 200-230rwkw, 550cc minimum)

airflow meter (stocker runs out of capacity around 220rwkw, z32 or q45 afm)

tyres (stock or crappy tyres will just result in lots of wheelspin)

suspension (standard suspenion will hamper your launch capabilities)

brakes (stock calipers should be ok, but you should look at some good rotors and / or braided brake lines and good pads)

ecu (stock ecu will be useless. go for aftermarket stand alone. recommend apexi powerfc)

fuel pump (stock pump will run out of capacity around 200rwkw)

intercooler (stock intercooler will run out of capacity around 180rwkw)

exhaust (stock exhaust will be useless, at least 3.5" dump pipe / front pipe and 3.5" exhaust with hiflow cat)

boost controller (good a good bleed valve or electronic controller)

pineapple kit (to prevent axle tramp)

standard plenum is fine (no need to change)

here's a base line list, you just need a suitable turbo.

hiflow of the standard unit should get you to 250rwkw easily without any extra lag. once you go past that stage you need to look at internals and consider how much money you really have and what your target is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gates is saying the same thing. They think I have the right bag with the wrong hose in it... I bought it off amazon, I'm thinking someone pulled a good old swapparoo and returned normal hose. Well looks like she's coming back out... Not very lucky with this hose lol. 
    • Chatting one someone recently at racing them at QR. They say you can't take turn 2 in one flat stick in 4th. They don't have the torque to pull them selves straight, so make sure you're ringing it's neck out in 3rd instead
    • Many years ago when I bought my FG XR6T, it came with bald tyres on the back (think pretty much smooth for most of the tread) and brand new Kinforest cheap shit tyres on the front. In the rain, I had more grip in the bald ass tyres on the back, than the brand new Kinforest. To the point you couldn't drive off at a set of lights and turn the corner. Car would only go straight. Very quickly all four tyres were replaced.   A few years back on a VF SV6 I had, it came with brand new chineesium tyres. In the wet at 90kmh, old 1990s tray back tradie utes could corner faster than me. There was one corner on a freeway, in a 90 zone, it's not even marked to reduce speed for those curve, it's not a hard corner, I could put the LandCruiser on mud tyres through with ease (it would easily do the corner in the wet I reckon at 120kmh), the VF however couldn't get through it at 80, as it would want to slide out.   Cheap tyres aren't worth the risk. I like decent brakes, and decent grip.
    • It shouldn't swell like that, (just looked it up) it should say SAE J30R10  
    • Anyone here a submersible fuel hose expert? I pulled my hanger out again for unrelated issues and noticed the hose I popped on last week has already swollen. This is Gates 27093 submersible hose. I've waiting on a response from Gates, but this surely can't be normal? This is on pump gas, not E85.  Is swelling a tad possibly normal? I've also been fighting with my power steering belt.... I've now tossed one and killed two. I just realigned my pulleys again, hoping this time it stays on. It doesn't like high rpm.   
×
×
  • Create New...